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Got a repair request from a customer who was going to be placing his house on the market and needed to have a crack repaired.
Customer sent photos of the crack and said that he had extra material to use for doing the repair. The job was 115 miles away.When I got to the job, I discovered that the top was not the usual solid surface. It was a home spun cultured marble with speckled matrix all the way through. It looked like it had a gel coat finish. Because it was polyester and in a south facing window, it had yellowed considerably. I knew that any patch I put in would be lighter. I also expected the matrix to be more vibrant once I sanded the patch because the original had a gel coat finish. I spent about 45 minutes just trying to convince myself I should try to fix this. That included trying to sand on the extra material and then get it back to a high gloss finish to match the existing counter top.At some point the customer had a drop in cooktop replaced with a slide in range. The patch material was what was cut out of the front of the cooktop. Not much to work with.
The customer was very thrilled that he didn’t have to replace the tops just to place the house on the market.Johnny CJohnny, could the solid ply substrate have contributed to the failure? Another good save brottha!
J. C. nice project. im waiting for something like that to come my way to bid. Not much commercial around here.
David,
I think that it is possible that the solid substrate may be a contributor to the failure. Mostly I think that there was an excessive heat issue in the area. I could see small regular indentations where crock pot feet may have left an impression when the material got a bit soft.Johnny CPosted By Countertop Artisans on 02 Apr 2013 04:41 PM
John,
Nice repair.
What bit (size, cut) did you use to cut the plug?Rick,
The bits that I used are from Velopec. They are the Solid Surface Repair set. It includes: 30-300 TMB-1 bevel cut and the 30-305 TMD-2 dovetail cut. I hope that answers your question.If you are talking about the male/female jig. I used a 1/4″ bit and cut 1/4″ deep. Then I used a jigsaw to cut all the way through. I used a flush trim bit to finish. The Male and female jigs are now exactly the same shape minus 1/4″. I posted on the process here somewhere.Johnny C
I had to try my hand at the underlit LED’s. Here is my first attempt. A few things I learned….I should have boxed in the sink. You can see the mounting brackets. ( they look like bumps and worse in the pic then they really are). I build a 1″ plywood box to hold the LED’s. There is actually a little too much light coming through. I think a better version would have to just had lights across the back and not the sides. Better next time. (It was made from Dovae Peach Jade)
The lights are about an inch away from the vanity. I built a 1″ plywood box and the LED’s were self sticking. I stuck them at the bottom of the side of the box and sat the vanity on top of the framework of the box. I checked the lights for heat and there wasn’t any heat coming off of them after 15 minutes of being on without the top being set in place.
I have been very busy for a one man shop, got a job from an old customer 90′ of cabinets & counters, plus 2 more 30′ counters.
The counters are 1 1/8 MDF PL both sides 42″ X 30′ The cabinets are 34″ X 48″ with doors on both sides.
Here is how I move the panels by myself. I slide the board from the lift to the panel saw and tip it up.
This is how I move 1 1/8″ 5′ X 12′ I clamp a strip across and tip it onto a roll around table.
My son open a body shop on the end of my building so here is a shot of the spay booth. It was so nice to spray a whole job at one time 60′ of Maple rail
Sorry no solid surface here, but with the way things have been the past 4 yrs
it was good I was a cabinet maker before I was a solid surface fabricator.
photo number 3, a model A in the back round?
Looks like a nice job, hope you had help with all the lifting.
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