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well
the topic describes it all. a lot of shops are thinking of or
implementing new materials to there shop. in this forum i would assume
it is people thinking of adding granite to the solid surface shops.so im want to give my knowledge as best i can so what would you like to know about.
-implementing stone into a solid surface shop
-water treatment
-tools to start with
-where to start-fabrication
-sink fab
-drain boards
-near invisible seams
-inside 90 degree with complicated profiles. ogee and so on
-install & templatei
have worked with many different shops in this transition currently. i
am working with another shop on flow and quality i just want to help
the counter top industry in generali am a proud SFA member
and feel that they are the best stone resource on the internet. i just
hope to be able to assist in some way i love to share so feel free to
askI would love to get a comprehensive list of tools and supplies for installing granite, quartz and pre-cast concrete. Many of us have wanted to install these products and have other well established shops do the fabrication. Without knowing what to buy, it makes it difficult to take the next step.
List that I have seen before talk in general tems. Tor example, the list will say, “Angle grinder with stone polishing pads.” For companies that don’t understand teh details, it would help to have exact part numbers and products that will work. This takes the guess work out of the equation. Last time I checked, there were over 25 different angle grinders that one could purchase to polish and edge. Which one do you buy and then is it the right one?
Any help putting a list together would be a great help.
no problem i was an install sub contractor for a little over a year. i was a plant manager for 13 years before i made that move. and now i am back into tha shop setting and working on doing fab only work for other shops in our surrounding areas.
as an install your tools are mush less than a fabricator. obviously you need to start with a truck that can handle the work load several people just use a standard pick up but you are limited as to how much you can actual move in one of those. i use a 16 foot box truck for properly transporting your finished product i prefer the weah a frames if you have 2 you can swap out your a frames. drop off the empt a frame and pick up the loaded one you can fit about 300 sq ft on a n a frame. as long as the fork lift can lift it
so let me start this list
TRANSPORTING
-a truck that can handle the weight
-weah a frames you can get them from braxton bragg
– stone pro lifting clamps also in braxton bragg
-sink savers for pieces that have large sinks or fragle stone
-tie down straps
-dry wall cartINSTALLING
-you can never have enough grinders (multi speed)– polishing pads ,set of wet polishing pads i recommend metoflex from helix a good set of dry pads as well as a set of alpha resin pads for top polishing. for top polishing it is also good to have the polishing powders i prefer diaglo for light and dark stones. you would also need a set of alpha turbo polishing pads. and a set of alpha buff pads. you will also need a stiff backer pad and a flexible backer pad. as well as a felt pad for your buffing compounds.
– for cutting stone and splash you can set up a 12″ chop saw with a diamond blade i prefer the pearl sd green blade i have used a lot of blades and over all its the best blade. 90% of the time i just use a grinder with a 5″ flush mount cutting blade its fast easy and you can do all of your outlets as well with it
-grinding you will need a set of all the common hole saw sizes from 1″ through 2″ the most used will be your 1 3/8″ but i use them alll from time to time so its better to have them than to not have them you will need a 4″ cup wheel for your grinding and coping.
– for pulling your seams together i would use nothing other than the gorilla seam clamps.
– glue there are many different kinds of glue epoxy, polyester, and acrylic i prefer the superior acrylic knife grade for seams for you solid surface guys just get the integra adhesives glue it fits the gun you already have and its a great glue. for repairing pits and fissures i recommend the superior penetrating. hot stuff is also a great glue the execrator does not create green bloom like the ca glue does.
im sure i may be missing a thing or 2 but for the most part the rest is stuff you already have. levels, drills, chop saw with wood blade, chisels, shop vac and all the other little things
im sure i will re read this and add to it
Andy:
One of the most important granite/estone install tools is a 14′ 2×6 and (2) large “C” clamps.
If you’ve got to get a big ‘un in the house, clamp on the 2x and you’ve got two nice handles sticking off each end.
Clamp the 2x to the finished side, obviously.
Or you can buy the expensive grabber thingies and have the top you’re moving in you own way.
Joe
Posted By Kowboy on 10/12/2008 10:34 PMAndy:
One of the most important granite/estone install tools is a 14′ 2×6 and (2) large “C” clamps.
If you’ve got to get a big ‘un in the house, clamp on the 2x and you’ve got two nice handles sticking off each end.
Clamp the 2x to the finished side, obviously.
Or you can buy the expensive grabber thingies and have the top you’re moving in you own way.
Joe
Nice and simple Joe, I like that !
i hate to say it but a 2×6 is not the best idea they are flexible they also cup and warp the best thing is the sink savers or go get your self some aluminum c channel and cut your self a set of 9 foot a set of 6 foot and a set of 4 foot runs. put duct tape on all of the aluminum that will come into contact with the stone so you dont end up with metal marks on your stone.
also the c channel is way lighter and stiffer than a 2×6
transfer due to material type if you get an aluminum mark on stone the quickest way to get rid of it is a little dia glow powder a drop of water or two and rub it off with your finger it takes a few seconds and does not damage the stone.
in reference to the 2×6 conversation we make these our self its nice to have a machine shop next door and some one who knows how to use it.
these are made from stainless steel the are about 5 feet long they work wonders
Eli, I read trhat quickly while looking at the picture and thought you said blow powder. I thought “wow, that must be expensive!”.
It looks like a handy bit of stuff top have around. I had not thought about interaction with dissimilar materials. Lesson learned, money saved. Where do you get the powder?
I thionk Joe was mainly referring to the extra carrying support with the 2x. Is ter some device that gives you the advantage of shoulder carrying without using the wood?
Tom,
I use dry wall dust and a little water to get ost metal mars off. This happens alot on light monochromatic engineered stones.
you can get it from granite city tools they have it for light and dark granite. as well as light and dar marble there is a difference. its commonly used for top polishing . how ever i am testing some new stff that seams to work rely well ill have more on it later
as far as metal marks go after having to remove many of them over the years you kind of figure out it is way easier to just put duct tape on any metal that may come in contact with the granite. i have it on all my grinders as well.
there was a big learning curve adding granite and engineered stone to our solid surface shop but after many many years i am more than willing to make other peoples transitions easier
like i said any thing you want to know just ask. im in vegas now so my response may be a little slow
Now were getting somewhere. This is great information and the tips about the rail is the least expensive tool and may just save the most money by not breaking a counter.
Let me pour over all this information. I will be asking more in the future.
Thanks Eli
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