Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 32 total)
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  • #1776
    Wade Stein
    Member

    We are going to start building Laminate Tops along with the solidsurface tops that we already build. I have done a few in the past, but on a very small scale. I would like to know what tools, tips and the do’s and don’ts of doing this from the professionals that do this all the time. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

    Wade

    #29309

    Wade, whats going on ? welcome to the fabnet…havent heard of someone wanting to learn Laminate in awhile…cool it does produce some money though…anyway if you dont have any idea about it google online Mica lamination basics, they probal;y have the lists etc, I suggest also buy some shi* mica and start practicing, Mica is alot of practice to me and the most unforgiven material out there…Veneer can be sanded, chips puttied,etc…cant do that with mica, then wait til ya start playing with brushed aluminum…I feel if someone reads a book on airbrushing and knows the book inside and out….please dont trust them on your motorcycle tank…when i first airbrushed….splat all over the place it takes practice…good luck start out with can routers and I like disposable flush bits,if you want to use bearing bits keep em greased or you’ll get marks….have fun and if i can help you thru your beginnings let me know….I love mica……

    #29317
    Tom M
    Member

    G-d bless ya, Gene. My Dad always said that laminate is the most unforgiving countertop material out there. I think this is especially true compared with solid surface, the most forgiving that I’ve ever worked with.

    Wade, you first need to find out what type of tops you will be selling. If you’re going to be a cutting station for postform blanks, the tooling will be a little different than if you fab flatwork.

    First tip – learn the scribbled line sanding method, if you are not sure about the accuracy of your sanding.

    #29334

    Tools to start with.
    Laminate trimmer with a ball bearing flush cutter.
    Laminate trimmer with an adjustable beval edge cutter.
    Router with an overhang bearing for hogging off the excess plam.
    Laminate files.
    Contact cement spray system, don’t even think about rolling the stuff. Install an explosion proof fan if you plan on using the flamible stuff. If you go with a pressure pot then be sure to get extra gaskets and disposable pot liners.
    Palm and J style rollers for pressing the stuff on.
    Router and template for mortising in the counter top connectors.
    Contact cement cleaner. There is a difference between cleaner and thinner, get the cleaner. Cleaner breaks the bond of the cement and the excess wipes away with nothing left behind. Thinner will disolve the cement and it will take forever to get the surface clean, it leaves streaks that never seem to go away.

    #29394
    Wade Stein
    Member

    What is everybody using for glue? Water Based or the Flamable.

    #29395
    Wade Stein
    Member

    Tom,

    I’m not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.

    Wade

    #29396
    Wade Stein
    Member

    Tom,

    I’m not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.

    Wade

    #29397
    Wade Stein
    Member

    Tom,

    I’m not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.

    Wade

    #29400
    Becky
    Member

    Damn I am tired… I am seeing stuff in triple!

    Goodnight all…

    btw What the hell is scribble what?

    #29401
    David Gerard
    Member

    Kevin, maybe it’s your trifocles

    Wade , I think Tom ment scribe line. with the one peice splash . Waterbase glue is for home owners. We all had a thread on this not long ago. Good to see another laminator…. be proud! and wear a resporator.

    #29402
    Tom M
    Member

    A scribble line is taking a pencil and scribbling a line at the edge of the substrate, on top, where it meets the laminate edging. The two most important things to know about sanding laminate are:

    Always cut with the following edge. This way you won’t be creating a hard edge that you then run the belt into, often tearing it and needing to replace the edge. This includes scribing a splash to fit a wall. Always “snowplow” when you sand. And:

    Always sand the laminate flush to the substrate. If you round over the edge by sanding too heavy on the front, you’ll create an area where the laminate won’t stick, due to the substrate dipping down. If you sand to far back on the heel of the sander, you’ll create a divot line behind the edge, resulting in a weak bond at best, or an actual visible dip where the laminate drops into the trench you just created.

    A scribble line will let you keep a check on how you are sanding. If you wear the pencil line at the front, you’re dipping to far forward. If you see the back disappearing first, your tipping back on the heel of the sander. You don’t have a lot of time with a 3 x 24 and 40 grit belt, so pay attention. Draw the scribble like a tight sinewave. Up/down/up/down, etc.

    #29420
    Sue Turner
    Member

    Tom is right on the sanding. Quick way to mess up a top. When you get real good all you have to do is watch the glue line to make sure you are flat sanding.

    #29426
    Tom M
    Member

    william, thanks for the back up. The glue line works with filing as well.

    #29438

    Wade, this is the Virutex hand slitter for laminate I mentioned before. Nice tool for cutting strips.

    #29442
    Tom M
    Member

    That’s the one to buy, for sure. Though I have a nice scar from stripping edging and hitting a crack in the sheet. Drove the edge right to the bone.

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