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December 16, 2010 at 9:58 pm #65052Un-AuthorizedMember
Steve:
Take along your Festool 150 when you go along with some 120, 180 and some 400 paper. I’d refinish and hit it with some Countertop Magic. If that doesn’t do it, let LG handle it.
Joe
December 17, 2010 at 7:36 am #65063KCWOODMemberJoe…pssst.. hey Joe… before anyone says anything about leading a newbie…. did you miss a grit there? Or do you use the countertop magic to hide the 180 grit scratches that the 400 grit doesn’t sand out?
Just looking out for ya!
BTW… who makes that single bowl sink?
December 17, 2010 at 8:33 am #65066Brian StoneMemberSometimes I wish I wasn’t so nice. If this was a problem with a granite top or sink everyone would be talking about how solid surface would have been a much better choice. Lucky for you guys I’m too nice to say anything like that when there is a problem with a solid surface sink / top.
December 17, 2010 at 12:15 pm #65077Un-AuthorizedMemberPosted By Kelsey Crisp on 17 Dec 2010 07:36 AM
Joe…pssst.. hey Joe… before anyone says anything about leading a newbie…. did you miss a grit there? Or do you use the countertop magic to hide the 180 grit scratches that the 400 grit doesn’t sand out?Just looking out for ya!
BTW… who makes that single bowl sink?
Kelsey:
The lady at this job two days ago didn’t think I missed any grits, but hey, you probably know more than her.
Joe
December 17, 2010 at 3:13 pm #65083KCWOODMemberJoe, as a matter of fact, I do know more than your homeowner about sanding solid surface. I could sand a sink with 80grit and spray on that shiney countertop crap , it would look great to the homeowner while she writes a check , it would look great when I took pictures, it would look great until… well the shiny stuff wears off.
If one was to sand Cherry or maple wood with 180 and then jump to 400, then when you stained and finished it would look terrible. If I skip that many grits on a solid black solid surface job, if I went to high polish, it would look bad.
Here is where we differ Joe, i don’t skip grits, and I never leave my jobs with a spray-on artificial shine..
December 18, 2010 at 9:27 am #65093Lenny EMemberHi Joe/Kelsey,
I am going to have to weigh in with Kelsey on this one. Going from 180 to 400 grit and skipping the grits in between is asking for trouble. On my most recent trip abroad that was one problem I encountered in Australia. The fabricators had skipped grits and the top looked great at first. After a month or two the tops would turn milky white in color. What was characterized as a material problem turned out to be improper fabrication. Upon refinishing with the correct grit sequence the problem was solved.
Just sayin
December 18, 2010 at 12:48 pm #65106Un-AuthorizedMemberPosted By Kelsey Crisp on 17 Dec 2010 03:13 PM
Joe, as a matter of fact, I do know more than your homeowner about sanding solid surface. I could sand a sink with 80grit and spray on that shiney countertop crap , it would look great to the homeowner while she writes a check , it would look great when I took pictures, it would look great until… well the shiny stuff wears off.
If one was to sand Cherry or maple wood with 180 and then jump to 400, then when you stained and finished it would look terrible. If I skip that many grits on a solid black solid surface job, if I went to high polish, it would look bad.
Here is where we differ Joe, i don’t skip grits, and I never leave my jobs with a spray-on artificial shine..
Kelsey and Lenny:
I guess I just pay more attention to the people who give me money than those that five free advice.
Should we let the manufacturer of the bowl, in this case DuPont, be the arbiter?
Maybe you know more than they do?CTDC – 123 Finishin Corian Surfaces, recommends a 60u followed by a maroon Scotch Brite for a matte finish, the finish I would recommend for the wear and tear to which sinks are subject.
60u is equal to p220 sandpaper. I recommended the use of p180. According to Dani Homrich, that is a difference of 0.00047 in grit size. A maroon Scotch brite is equal to p360-p400. So my recommendation only deviated from the manufacturer’s recommendations by p40. The only possible downside to this recommendation would be a longer time spent with the p400 to remove the p180 scratches. I like p400 sandpaper in sinks instead of the Scotch-Brite because sandpaper never leaves maroon marks in the sink.
There is no “skipped grit” at least according to the manufacturer of the bowl. I’ll concede I recommended a grit slightly different than that recommended by the manufacturer.
Besides giving a nice shine, Countertop Magic causes water to bead up beautifully, a good feature in a sink. Is the wax on your car an “artificial shine” or is it just a good idea to protect an expensive investment?
Joe
December 19, 2010 at 6:36 pm #65142Steve MehanMemberI had the chance to look at the sink on Friday, and the marks looked like that of ones left behind from castiron cookware and also the ones around the drain looked like hairline cracks. The marks were a purpleish gray color. I asked about the cookware being castiron and they don’t have any. Also the sink has no sheen and upon feeling it, the surface felt like it had a buildup of film. I used one of there sponges with a scotchbrite on one side alone with softscrub and had no luck. I then decided to just go ahead a sand out with 80 mic and that did the trick. It also showed just how stained the rest of the sink looked , I continued with 60 Mic and then an abralon 360 , 500 and it looked like new again. After running the water the sheen was gone. I asked if they had a softer and they don’t. Now I got to thinking about iron in the water and looked at there cookware, it has copper bottoms. I’m thinking that’s why the marks are a purpleish color instead of black.This could be a situation where it is the hard water that is the cause. I’m gonna check back whit them in a weak to see how it looks . Maybe a water softer is the answer?
December 19, 2010 at 6:39 pm #65143Andy GravesKeymasterHow about the hairline cracks, are they still there?
December 20, 2010 at 5:20 am #65149Steve MehanMemberAndy, After sanding all the marks were gone. What I think is happening is there water is so hard with minerials and they were not using enough pressure when using there scotchbrite cleaning sponge, that a film formed on the sink therefore maybe enhancing the marking.
December 20, 2010 at 9:28 am #65152Dani HomrichMemberSteve
The sink looks stained to me. I have seen before dye, ink, food coloring will cause that. My customer rinsed a shirt pocket out in her sink from a leaky pin, what a mess. I sanded with 60 mic, 30 mic and finished with the Perfect Finish and a maroon scuff pad and the sink looked beautiful. I gave her one of my customer care kits and no problem since. Kit contains P220, P400, Maroon scuff, Green Boss pad, 3″ hoop & loop foam hand pad, and a 50ml bottle of the pink Perfect Finish.
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