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We are attempting to make our first inlay. I do not have a CNC although I have access to a thermwood at a local cabinet shop. There experience is limited to processing panels. The first inlay is pretty simple, no overlapping lines, no joined images.
I have converted the bitmap file to a .dxf and .dwg file using coreldraw. I have two questions.
1) Is it reasonable to think that someone operating/programming a CNC in a cab shop can use these files to cut an inlay?
The first question from the cab shop is going to be about tooling. 2) Is there a standard enough response to that question to give us a starting point from which to work? ( ie.. will I be able say use an XYZ bit to trace the outline and then remove the inside material with an ABC bit),?
Or, have I grossly oversimplified the entire process?
OK, sorry, that was 3 questions.
Thanks
chris
Chris,
First, check the .dxf file (or whichever the CNC programmer wants to use) in a CAD program. The sizing is probably fine, but Corel and Adobe can do wierd things with .dxf exports.
You will at least want to route the outside edge with a V shaped bit. I would think a 60 degreee will give you better sharp corners. A good Island fill process will lift the bit as it gets to the sharp points, letting the bevel keep a sharper effect from the route.
The rest of the island fill, in this case, should still use the V bit I would say. It is small enough where the time won’t kill you.
I hope this was clear enough.
Tom
I forgot to mention that this is the same inlay that Mory very graciously offered to help me out on. If we can’t figure this out, he is going to be my safety net.
I spoke with the Avonite Rep today regarding resins. He said, and I gather from reading other posts here, that I can dye them to my liking with regular powdered dyes from an art supply store. Any hazards to watch out for when doing this?
Of course I’ll make and use the entire batch of each color at one time. (to avoid having to exactly match a previously mixed color)
Tom,
Thanks, that will give me a starting point for our first attempt.
Chris
Chris,
I dont know what kind of art store you go to but not any pigment is good for any resin, you have to make sure you get the right pigment for the right resin, they are not all compatable. Whomever you buy the resin from should also be able to supply you with a kit. Certain pigments interfere with the catalyst or dont bond well in the resin.
John
I have to say I have always had good luck with Align-Rite. Grab a laminate chip, if you have one that matches. If not, for an extra fee they will match Pantone.
Tom
Chris,
Align-rite is good stuff to do inlays with. Easy to work with, sandable fairly quick and good color matching. Sometimes I use an epoxy but that is a little messier to deal with plus you have wait usually til the next day to finish it.
John
Over on one of the “Insert Image” threads (1/29, about 2:00), I show some different color inlays. The most complicated one has to go in five times for the right route and fill in the right sequence. The easiest is one trip, even with two colors. We separate them with either hot melt or silicone dams.
The problem comes when you don’t get all the dam(!) material off and it gets gunked into the sandpaper. You can really chew into the fill that way, and it just plain sucks.
All these fills were from Align–Rite.
Tom
Tom,
Thanks for the info, I saw the pics. I will give align-rite a try. I would prefer to get everthing from one source.
Chris
Jon,
I truly hope that would be for the new stocking warehouse, but I shan’t be surprised if not.
Tom
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