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Norm, I always just run a razorblade down the wall, and cut the crap out of the caulk. On replacements, I always put back a 4 1/4″ backsplash and it covers any imperfection caused by the old top.
Kelsey, it’s not just the caulk on the top edge, I got that first also, then try to pound a putty knife down behind it. The problem is the angle is never right and you end up tearing up the drywall. Even if I drive the putty knife down where there is a stud, then use a pry bar in that area to pry it away from the wall, it still tears up the wall in most cases.
I almost seems like if you had a hoe with a short handle, (the angle is right) sharpened it would work.
But if you tear up the drywall, and you have cut the drywall while cutting the caulk, so what. You have a cut line, drywall intact from the cut line up. So what if some of the paper is torn or missing from the cut mark down… that will be covered with the new backsplash. Even if you have to pry off of the drywall, the new 4 1/4 backsplash will cover any dent that prying leaves.
Raise the splash whenever possible and back-bevel the scribe. That’s for a coved splash, but would it be so hard to rigid glue a splash without a cove, in order to add scribe?
Would there be jobs that it would be quicker? Remember, if you do this regularly, it is much easier to do.
The back-bevel has another benefit in that it speeds up the sanding, as well as requires less clean walls.
If you back beveled the scribe, you’re saving time and risk by not having to scrape the wall clean.
The join at the ninety isn’t great, but it’s a heck of a lot better tan silicone.I keep asking my guys, between coved jobs and set on jobs, if the time was better one way or the other. So far, the time is pretty close, especially on replaced tops. It was back when I installed as well.
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