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Anybody ever use a yellow glue lace over spray on contact cement? I’m talking about where you have a full size substrate and are piecing the laminate with a laminate seam.
I have never done that, we always just use contact. Are you trying for a better seam? I know with using contact the laminate can open up at the seam sometimes and using the yellow glue would probably keep the laminate from doing that but I am not sure how well the yellow glue would work over contact.
Shane
Steve,
On the rare job whyere we have to use contact, and the seam has to go in the sink cut out, then yellow glue (or the type-two) will be fine, but they should mask off the area to be rigid glued, to keep the contact off. I am not quite sure what you mean by “lace”.
Tom
We never put the seam at a sink. Our work is all commercial/hospital and we would rather put two seams on a top then seam at or very near a sink.
We used to mask off until I tried the lace method. If you look closely at sprayed contact you will see a lot of tiny bare spots in between the cement droplets. Spray as per usual and when the sheets are ready to stick you take a yellow glue bottle and hold it about 2 feet off the surface and squeeze lightly to make a very fine glue string come out. Lace this fine glue thread back and forth over the seam line, maybe a 4-6″ side to side overlap. Try putting them 1/2″ on center. They need to be fine enough to not squeeze out to far and interfere with the contact, and thick enough to hold. It worked like a charm the first time I tried it, and it was winter time when we get the most shrinkage. I checked on the job a few months later and found the seam to still be as tight as when we built it. Upon very close examination I could see where almost every thread was because that was where the seam still touched. 1000% better than just contact alone. The yellow causes the sheet to shring somewhere else.Steve, it’s now 5 months after the IWF show. You know the part about: “We’ll talk after the show”. Well, it’s…after the show!
Seams in a sink cut out on a contact top is not a good idea. When we make a rolled cove, or any top with an applied edge, we use a National Casein glue and press it.
Steve, doubtless you remember the brief and unfortunate heyday of color core/solicore/melcor?
I’ve inspected jobs where the tops literally tore themselves apart – I mean you could roll a nickle down the crack and not touch laminate. This was because fabricators were told that they could carpenter glue the seams (and edges, with color through laminate) and contact the rest of the top. They say corian sounds like a gunshot when it goes. This must be like a Falcon Gun.
Remember “Color Tiers”?
Tom
I mean, like you need to take out bones in “Operation” in narrower gaps than this fault-line of a countertop!
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