[Brady Hudson]

I’m working more towards standing edge build up -vs- stacking.  We are doing this on tops without radiuses.  I’d like to learn the process of doing this on jobs with radiuses?

 

• 
  Are you cutting the radius pieces on the CNC(at 1/2″) and stacking these and THEN butting the stood up(1′) pieces into this?
  
• 
  Are you thermoforming the inside and outside radiuses?
  
• 
  How do you handle the veined colors? Tumbleweed, Burled beach etc.
  
• 
  What size wood strips do you place on the bottom of the top (behind the front edge build-up)
  
• 
  Where you have butt seams in the edge build-up, do you place some type of seam reinforcement behind this butt joint?
  
• 
  Do you have trouble with tops flexing(when moving) and popping off the stood up edge build-up?
  
• 
  Failures after installation?
  

Thanks,
Brady

[Andy Graves]

If I remember correctly, you must have a 1″ glue surface on edges, except for Corian, to meet warranty standards.

We stack the edges because they are much easier to do on the CNC. Just cut the pieces, stack and glue. No manually fitting is needed.

Inside corners are much stronger when the edge is continuous through the inside corner. Eliminates all seems at the inside corner.

If you do a standup edge, I would suggest reinforcement at the edge seams and the inside corner. Whenever we have a failure it is typically due to the inside edge seam the radiates into the deck. Reinforce if possible.

Some thermoform but it takes time and it is difficult to achieve a tight 1″ radius.

Veined colors look better with a stacked edge. There is no differentiation between the deck veining and the edge.

[John Christensen]

Posted By Andy Graves on 08 Apr 2011 12:44 PM
If I remember correctly, you must have a 1″ glue surface on edges, except for Corian, to meet warranty standards.

We stack the edges because they are much easier to do on the CNC. Just cut the pieces, stack and glue. No manually fitting is needed.

Inside corners are much stronger when the edge is continuous through the inside corner. Eliminates all seems at the inside corner.

If you do a standup edge, I would suggest reinforcement at the edge seams and the inside corner. Whenever we have a failure it is typically due to the inside edge seam the radiates into the deck. Reinforce if possible.

Some thermoform but it takes time and it is difficult to achieve a tight 1″ radius.

Veined colors look better with a stacked edge. There is no differentiation between the deck veining and the edge.

Andy, is right about the 1″ glue surface on edges (except Corian) Corian allows a 1/2″ stand up edge but recommends adding a reinforcement behind butt seams.  At edge butt seams I always cut the butt on 45 deg. instead of a 90 deg butt.  this is much stronger.

I used to always use the standing 1/2″ edge on Corian.  But I have since addopted the stacked edge which I turn in a standing position.  This gives you one less glue joint to possibly show on the front of the edge.  This also allows you material for a 1″ radius on the outside corners if desired.

Inside corners are stronger if the material is continuous through the corner.  That being said, Dani entered a very relevant post about this a while back.  I found it very usefull and I bet it is just as strong as using corner blocks at inside corners.  One needs to be very carefull about a tight fitting gusset with this technique or the glue line there will be more noticable.  At edge butt seams I always cut the butt on 45 deg. instead of 90.  This is much stronger.

For large radii, I like to thermoform my pieces for a verticle stack.  However I have found that if you use the deck as a clamping jig it interferes with the even cooling of the pieces and the parts will warp like a banana unacceptibly.  I will space the pieces 1″ above the deck for bending and this allows for even cooling and less chance of warping.  For veined colors I agree with Andy.  It looks better if they are stacked normally.  If you want to stand the edge up I would recommend making a 1/4″ deep rabbet from the back side of the deck to set the edge into.  This also works well for material that is noticeably stratified in it’s particulate.  (Manufacturers, what are we going to do with you?  Sic em Lenny).

When doing a standard layered stack it always ends up less than 1-1/2″ thick when finished.  I prefer the full 1-1/2″ so this is another reason that I like to glue up edge pieces beforehand and trim to the appropriate thickness.

Johnny C

[Steve Mehan]

http://thefabricatornetwork.com/Forum/tabid/164/aft/257987/afc/49413/Default.aspx

Here is the link to that post Johnny. I switched to the way Dani recommended and am very happy.

[Wags]

Good question and good answers, this is where the real value of this forum shines. Thanks to everyone

[John Christensen]

Yup, Steve, that is the thread.  Thanks for looking it up.

Dani recommends using the clamps on the chop saw to get a perfect cut.  That never worked for me.  More often than not the inside corners 0on a top are not square anyway because you are making the top fit the house, or whatever.  I like to fine tune the corner gusset at the stationary disc sander.  Just my preference.

Johnny C

[Andy Graves]

We cut and then sand with the disc sander as well when fitting manually.

[Tom M]

FabNet really needs a “Greatest Hits” section.

[Andy Graves]

Posted By Tom M on 11 Apr 2011 11:11 AM

FabNet really needs a “Greatest Hits” section.

That is what the STAR rating thing is supposed to do but of course that doesn’t work as advertised.

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