-
Posts
-
Like most of you, we use the CNC for the occasional signage job. I will be doing some charity work for memorial tree plaques, and I was wondering about the least expensive material to engrave.
I have offered the remnant solid surface routed and painted style, but I don’t like the paint idea – I don’t think it will last as long as it should in an outdoor environment. Liquid inlays will last, but will cost too much (I imagine). I thought I saw material that was pre layered, so I could route through one layer, to expose a contrasting color deeper down.
Has anyone heard of something like this, that might be suitable for outsdoors?
Tom, why don’t you roll your own? (prelayer your own material). Glue up some 1/8 inch acrylic (Aristech) over some half inch thick shop waste and let the CNC have at it? The acrylic has better weathering than poly outdoors and Aristech even makes (or did at one time) a product touted for outdoor use. Never used it, but heard that.
That’s the way I would I do it, but you know they do say I’m quite insane.
Plus it may the only use for “SSV” that wouldn’t outright fail!
tom,
in the past I have used the king colorcore by kingsplastics. there a quite a few color combos now but not cheap. holds up very well outside.
http://www.kingplastic.com/products/all-products/king-colorcore/You need to call a plastics wholesaler that services the signage industry. They have tons of stuff that will be exactly what you are talking about. They can even stick plastics on foam which is light weight and last a long time outdoors.
Lenny
When I was in Kentucky at the Aristech plant ( ages ago now) the outside of the building was clad in Acrylic SS. Basically SSV, looked good and had been on a while when I saw it.
Sensei! Hailing from one of the last sane states in our Union. I forgot about the 1/8″ material and that would be ideal, but would cost too much.
Andy, the folks I am doing this for are looking into sign store suppliers, so we will see what they come up with.
Matt, Thanks! I have that site up now and will bookmark it. That looks promising.
Len-sama, that indeed was my point.
John, that color core material (why hasn’t Formica seen that bit of copyright infringement?) looks perfect, and I have an account with a distributor down the road! You are awesome! Sorry about mixing you with Matt. I’m getting senile.
The sheets aren’t cheap and the organization may go with free Corian I would donate and paint, but we’ll see.
corian with routed painted letters, easier and cheaper. I have some that have been outside for quite a while and still look good.
Yeah. Most of the ones I’ve done were interior use.
The folks I am doing this for said Krylon came out with a paint that is designed for plastic. Have you heard if it is a good thing? We always used Krylon metal and it seemed fine.The Krylon paint is called Fusion. It’s an aliphatic urethane.. the same basic coating I use for tub refinishing. I actually use the Fusion for tub chip repairs. It specially designed for superior adhesion to glass/plastics. It’ll dry to the touch in an hour or so but full cure in about 5-7 days for full hard use. WalMart carries it in a variety of colors as well as some paint stores such as Sherwin Williams/Benny Moore. You won’t need a primer with Fusion. However, if you use any other acrylic paint, prime with a product called Bulldog. It’s from the auto industry and used to get paint to adhere to plastic bumpers and such. However, Bulldog is a bit pricey but it never fails.
Tom, it water cures in 24 hours and full cure in 7 days. I would not hesitate to put it out in the weather in a day or two. It’s tough stuff. I repair hotel tubs with the stuff and have not had one call back in 4 years since it came out. From my calculations, I’d done approximately 700 tub repairs with it. It has my vote.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.