[cudink]

Does anyone know what will remove a solid surface sink glued to a solid surface top?  We tried acetone with not much luck.  Your help is appreciated! Thanks.

[Sue Turner]

Depends on what the problem is.  If you need to replace the sink you can just cut it out.  They make what looks like a saw blade that fits in your router and you set it the depth of the deck and route the sink off.  If you are trying to save the sink and the top I am not sure.  I have seen denatured alcohol and acetone left on a joint with a soaked rag pop the joint in SSW.

[Sue Turner]

Lenny or some of the others can more than likely give you better info on this.

[Josh Williams]

If you wanted to preserve the sink, you could flip the top on its backside and chisel the adhesive away and, once you can find a decent opening around the sink, work your way around it with a putty knife.

[John Cristina]

cut it off like Mr. Turner said. Set the top of the blade even with the top of the sink flange this way both are reusable if need be. most likely if you need the sink again you will have to route a good level surface back onto the flange but its not a big issue. make sure to set the RPMs on the router as low as possible. Should be able to remove the sink in a couple minutes.

[David Gerard]

OOOOOOOH SCARY! LOL! This is coming from a rookie repair guy. I hope to never have to do this. Sounds like your approach is spot on though. You will all know when I have to do one….

[Tom M]

Don’t we have a post showing a router box on here somewhere?
We seldom have need for one nowadays, but those boxes are major time savers when required.

[John Christensen]

Posted By Tom M on 12 Apr 2013 07:31 AM

Don’t we have a post showing a router box on here somewhere?
We seldom have need for one nowadays, but those boxes are major time savers when required.

Tom,

what do you mean by Router Box?

[John Christensen]

I have removed countless sinks.  The router method is by far the surest method if you are not trying to salvage the sink.

Just last week I was trying to savage a Corian sink from a display top.  I wanted to try the split glue seam technique.  It almost worked but the split migrated into the top material.  Fortunately I was not trying to save the deck.

To start the split Ii chipped away the glue squeeze out around the sink and used a sharp chisel right at the seam line and taped the chisel with a light hammer tap.  You will know by the sound when the seam starts to split.  Use the chisel to pry the sink apart just enough to slip in a putty knife.  tap the edge of the putty knife with your hammer and work you way around the sink.  I don’t know if it helps, but I like to let denatured alcohol wick into the leading edge of the split.

I have played with this technique before and I always get some material transfer at some point.

Johnny C 

[Tom M]

John,
Before the manufacturers made seamed undermount bowls, we used to make our own using a router box. You built a box designed to have adjustable support inside to secure any bowl, and you made a lid on the top that allowed right to left movement, while grooves in the lid allowed the router to slide front to back. It would route any sink level fairly quickly. Then we had a flat board with adhesive backed large sheet sandpaper to finish it out.

[joe]

I just cut one out yesterday. In house. I must say this is the most hated repair in solid surface I have to do. This was an old Simplicity job to boot, so the new sink didnt match the old hole well. Loooottttsss of grinding. Oh, and to minimize the dust in the house, you wrap yourself in a plastic tent. You can never charge enough for these jobs…

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