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Hi Fabricators,
Can anyone tell me what the percentage is of air sanders used versus electric in the solid surface industry? I normally recommend a great pneumatic line of sanders called AirVantage. This sander comes set up with a self-generated version and multi-holed backup pad that picks up 90% plus of particles without the need of a vacuum. This is enhanced obviosly with the multi-holed USEIT discs made by Joest. I am curious about these tool percentages in the trade…
Thanks,
Rob
Robert:
I’ve heard that it takes more electricity to run the compressor to make the air to run the sanders than it does to just run the sanders directly.
Joe
Joe, back in the mid eighties, there was a study that said air tools cost 10 times what electic tools cost when you factored in compressor maintaince, intitial cost and power costs. What you get in return is cooler running, power to weight issues and longevity of the tools themselves.
Back in the day, before we spent close to 50 grand on a semco boring machine, we drilled chair seats in metal jigs with air powered drills. Tried 1/2″ chuck industrial drills but they would be ruined in a week or so. The air drills lasted for years and would break your wrist if you weren’t careful.
There are places for air tools, don’t know if sanding counter tops is one of them.
Well, maybe in a sink. Otherwise, an electical tool will be cheaper to run and won’t get too hot in your hands. I could see air being better on granite or quartz if you had to hogg off a lot of material. Plus you won’t get shocked as often.
Al, the fact of the matter air sanders are in every shop I’ve ever been in. As well as electric. GEM, FESTOOL, Porter-Cable etc…in the world of electric and a hell of a lot of 5, 6 & 8″ air sanders. I’ve sold more 5″ DA’s in my life than I can count. The majority to SS fabricators.
Take a 3lb bag of flour and dump it on your electric tool. Then do it on an air sander. The electric will be smoked. The air will keep running and if not, can be be repaired.
Good point on the dust, it does eat up the sanders. Blow them out as grits are changed helps.
We used to use air sanders a lot, old psa type, for finial sanding. Had a big double pad thing for rubbing down table tops that ran on air and a aro pnuematic drum sander that had a air motor on it. Air motors on the barrel pumps and stain barrel stirring paddles.
Still, it worked the snot out of our thirty horse compressor. Motors for that thing ran around a thousand to rebuild. It ate them at least once or twice a year, so much that we eventually learned to keep a backup ready to install as well as the backup 10 horse that would let us limp along while they were changing out the motor.
A modern screw compressor would probally do better, but our experience was to keep the air used to a minimum.
Just saying, dude……..
We have a screw driven compressor. We probably use electric sanders (Porter cable) more than air. For the simple reason they’re more aggressive. Air sanders are used more for the fine applications. Never had a problem with dust. Good tool maintenance helps
Al, blowing the tool out after each grit? In a perfect world. I see folks who don’t blow the tool out at the end of the day and they wonder why the bearings freeze and the tool seizes. Can’t tell you the # of tools we open up in repair that are caked with SS dust. Add the moisture from an air line that’s connected to a sub par compressor and your going to have repair costs. Had one customer spending $1,000.00 a month on tool repair. Nail guns, sanders, spray equipment all because of moisture in the lines. He finally bought a conpressor with an air drying system on it and his tool repair bill virtually went to nil. Of course, it cost him around 15 grand but that was 8 years ago and the thing is still running smooth.
Jon, electric sanders more agressive? Perhaps some but have you ever used a Hutchins Eliminator? It’s an 8″ air sander that is not called the Eliminator for nothing. National Detroit also has a real nice 8″ sander.
FEDSAWDAVE wrote
Jon, electric sanders more aggressive? Perhaps some but have you ever used a Hutchins Eliminator? It’s an 8″ air sander that is not called the Eliminator for nothing. National Detroit also has a real nice 8″ sander.
Dave, (I checked this time, it’s you, not Wes):
When it comes to sanding out a cove backsplash, the electric Festool Rotex on Grinder mode is unmatched by any other tool, cove sanders included.
I’ve never used the Eliminator, but if it’s a random orbit only, it simply doesn’t stand a chance against the Festool.
Joe
Dave, I think we are back in the realm of higher end shops vs. countertop mills. With the satin and high gloss finishes, blowing out the sander is a must do if you are going to get er done. With acrylics and matte finishes, I can see where it doesn’t hurt as much.
I think your point on a really good compressor and dryer are where the value of air tools come in. Being able to produce enough dry air cheaply, is beyond the reach of most small to mid size shops. Leaving electic as the power of choice.
Air tools can be extremelhy powerful, very agressive. You can run a lot of horse power through an air sander with no other side effect than you hands gettting cold. Over work an electic sander and you reduce it’s life. Same reason we used air screwdrivers and drills for shop work, runs cool and was more powerful than the vrs drills available then.
Still, short of having $10,000 to invest in a good screw compressor, electric tools are the way to go.
Al, I do have some disagreement to your points. There are other options than very expensive compressors. I’ve seem hi end and lo end shops protect their air tool investments by attaching in-line dryers to their compressors. You can spend $600.00 on an in-line desecant air dryer (Devillbis makes one) or you can put 3 or 4 in-line Motor Guard filters on the system at around $80.00 per. Those are what folks call the “toilet-paer filter as it has a roll of compressed cardboard type paper in it that will not let the moisture pass in the line. Having a glass bulb type water drain is ok to a degree but water is still going to get past that type of filter.
The problem with both sized shops is a human nature issue. Tell them to blow out the tools and they usually don’t unless it is the owner using the tool then you can bet it gets done.
Believe me, when I think I’ve seen it all in this industry, I’m usually wrong. You learn something new every day.
Here is a link to Motorguard. While they’re in the automotive industry as it relates to keeping the water out of those lines in the auto body shops, any industry using air tools can benefit from their products. You can click on their distributor link and find a company selling the products in your area.
We have a screw compressor. 1- 500 gallon tank 2- 200 gallon tanks oil and water separators along with assorted filters 1- dryer and cooper piping. We also have a 15 HP compressor backing up in the case the big boy can’t keep up. With all of that if all 6 sanders ran air all day it could not keep up. Air sanders are air hogs. We porter cable the edge and festool the top. Air hogs are used under certain applications. I need the air for the CNC.
We hired a consultant to design the system so I feel comfortable that it works correctly.
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