[Reuben Hoff III]

Okay I do not necessarily need only Tom’s help but is is the one who had the feild seam trick I want to try out.

I remember the seam plate beaing made out of particle board and using screws as a seam leveler. I am wanting to know about how far away from the seam do you place these screws and if you use flat bottomed screws in pridrilled holes through the cleat?

I have a customer who is going to be a little difficult about things so I want to try this out. Also do you use wood glue when pulling them together this way?

Thanks a bunch a head of time.

Reuben

[Tom M]

Reuben,

When we cleat a field joint (or any miter in a postform blank – type top) we drill pilot holes about 2″ apart, staggered or not, on opposite sides of the seam line, and about 1″ or so in from the seam line.

The holes need to be wide enough for the wire, but not the threads.This is so you have grab on the cleat, so there is two-way adjustment, which is essential. You need to tighten one side, and loosen the other to get a really level seam. If it is possible, we will hard fasten one side of the cleat at the shop, so it is already in the right place on the top.

I would say never glue this with any adhesive and we had a good discussion elsewhere on this. We will only glue splined joints, which are better than the three dog-bones, but not as adjustable as the cleat method. The reason is that the end-grain of the particle board will soak it in and dry it too fast to finish the adjustments, which can take a half-hour or more to get just right. Commercially we almost always spline the joints, so they can be assembled and gloued quickly in the field, but almost never on residential, as the adjustments are more important here.

One other thing: we still use the dogbones to draw the top together, but make sure you don’t over tighten so when you tap-tap on the deck to help, you won’t chip out the laminate.

Feel free to call me and I can bore you further, if you need a sleep aid or some such. You still have my number?

Tom

[Reuben Hoff III]

Tom,

Thanks. Nope lost your number somewher in the pile of I need to put that in the computer someday when we moved office the office around.

I do understand what you described well enough to give it a try with a possible modification.

Thanks,

Reuben

[Tom M]

Let me know how it comes out.

[Reuben Hoff III]

Oh one more question is how does this new wilson art finish effect getting seams to not jump out at you when there is one say real close to a huge window?

Trying to talk her into be able to use 60″ wide, but she just seems to think a 65″ L bar is what she needs. Hey what do I know though I just build stuff.

Reuben

[Fred Atwood]

Ruben,

Do you have a Festool circular saw? If so, this is how we do field seams

1. Build top as 1 piece with an 8″ wide build up strip with dog bone notches pre-cut into it, at the place the field seam will go. When building the top, make it 1/8″ longer on each section that will have a field seam.

2. Laminate the top as a single unit placing laminate seams where field seams will go. Get them straight and square, but do not worry about getting a perfect fit.

3. Once all laminating is done, use Festool and guide rail to cut through top to separate into sections for field seam. Using the Festool allows for a clean, chip free cut on top.

4. Use biscuit jointer to cut a few biscuits into the edge.

5. Install using wood glue and biscuits on the joints, use the dog bones for extra support and to hold things tight while the wood glue dries.

We have done quite a few tops like this now and they are really quick to install and have had perfect field seam every time.

[Tom M]

Reuben,

You gave her the option, she made her choice.

The seams in the HD series are a bit trickier then some others, except for the ARP Nevamar. Make sure you have a nice sharp file to just skim the edge (very lightly) to take the roughness out. It will take out some of the whiteness at the edge.

I’ll see if John, at the shop, has any more advice tomorrow. He’s the best I have with laminate.

[Reuben Hoff III]

Real world,

thanks for the tip, but I am nor fortunate enough to have a festool saw. I like some of your methid, but I just have never had much luck with biscuit and getting the seams as level as I like them, I will consider all the rest at some piont.

Tom,

Thanks for the tips also. I have the one top for the feild seam ready to go and I must say it will take some time to get use to woking with. Is it me or is the white a little more prevelant in this product than others?

Reuben

[Tom M]

Reuben, it might, but I think your biggest problem is how the aluminum oxide chips after the cut. If it is a flat top, a combination of mirror routing the sheet (have I showed you our double laminate cutter yet?) and placing the laminate along a pre-assembled seam will give you better results.

[Reuben Hoff III]

Tom,

you have not given me the pleasure of seeing that baby yet. You know it’ll just make me jealous. Also it just adds one more reason I gotta save some money up to take a vacation to see your part of the country. Scenery to make th ewife and kids happy and tools for me that is the way for a real vacation.

I played around with the file a little bit and got the seem to come out good. Once I get the ceal and level system I decide to use I will try and post some pictures (aint quite got that figured out yet) for you to critique.

Reuben

[Fred Atwood]

Reuben,

You can modify the method by using a regular circular saw and cutting from the bottom as long as you use a really sharp, high grade blade you will get a clean cut on your HPL that way too.

Getting the biscuits correct can be a pain the the A##, but I have found, just like with most procedures, if I really take my time and make sure my work surfaces are clean (no dust of chips) they come out so tight the seam is almost not noticeable on many colors. Also with this method, you usually get a really good “grain” match since you are only taking out 1/8″ or less if you use a thin kerf blade.

Good luck!

[Author]

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