[Andy Graves]

Oh this material is a real joy. A contractor had this material delivered to our shop and we were a bit skeptical after inspecting it. The previous fabricator had some issues with the installation so we decided to help the contractor with the granite.

So we started fabricating and the material is crap. It basically falls apart. Now we have worked with this type of material in the past and we knew it would be a challenge. This is impossible. I falls apart in your hands, it won’t cut clean and absorbs water like a sponge.

Check out the video, it is not super in focus but you get the idea.

[Len Smith]

You can see the problem just by looking at the still picture. It’s not fit for use as a countertop.

[Andy Graves]

Problem is the first fabricator installed a few slabs worth of material in the house. The seams on the kitchen are starting to buckle so they need it fixed. Can’t change material now.

We found out after starting the fabrication process the contractor was given a disclaimer form about the material but failed to inform us. Not sure what’s going to happen now but I don’t think this can be successfully finished.

[Mark Meriaux]

Andy,

I personally agree with you that it is NOT suitable for use as a countertop. I try to dissuade customers who gravitate towards similar materials. Unfortunately, the layers of mica that just flake apart are also what makes it so sparkly and beautiful. Cutsomers get whatever they are willing to pay for – we educate, but don’t dictate.

We have had to work with similar materials in recent years, and they require additional steps during fabrication and additional care from the homeowner.

In the shop, we tape and epoxy all edges that are to be finished prior to machining or polishing. Build a tape dam, and use plenty of penetrating poly/epoxy on those edges. It will help immensely in holding them together during further fabrication. When polishing, DO NOT spend too much time with any of the grits. It polishes somewhat easily, just go fast and with plenty of water. You will still get some flaking and blowout, so be prepared to stop to fill them, then go on with finishing.

It can be surface polished to repair damaged areas (at the install), but if the additional care is taken in shop preparation, you can eliminate most problems in the field. Good luck!

AKA names for similar materials include: Matrix, Metallica, Cianitus, and many more.

[Andy Graves]

That is helpful information, I will give it a try. Thanks Mark

[Robert Connolly]

I just posted another topic asking for help with exactly the same problem.

I have had the best luck with thin CA/Krazy glue, used after cutting and before machining/polishing, while the piece is standing up on an A frame.

Thin CA glue can run under masking tape, so when masking the top surface, push the masking tape down with a razor blade to prevent CA glue from getting on the top.

Thin CA glue is about as thick as water. They also sell accelerator spray to harden the CA glue faster. Make sure the stone is dry first, so the glue can penetrate deeper.

However, even after $70 of CA glue and careful fabricating, it’s still bad.

What is driving me nuts is that the people who polish the top do a fairly good job, and we should be able to produce the same thing on the edges. The top is filled with a high end flowing polyester resin (it is typically a brown color, and dries much harder than Tenax), not normal polyester resin.

I think the best solution is clear lacquer on the entire piece, done by an autobody paint shop. Glass finish.

[Andy Graves]

What are you planning on doing with the lacquer after it’s fabricated? Doesn’t seem like you would want to keep the lacquer on the material after installation.

[Robert Connolly]

Yes, leave the lacquer on the entire piece. It’s not what we are used to doing, but it would work. The customer would get the color they want, and the top and edges would feel and look great. It will scratch and chip unless they’re careful, but that would also happen without the lacquer with this type of stone.

[mike]

We fabricated a job with Orion a year ago. I was told that it is a double mica material. It flakes very easily. We soaked the edges with flowing epoxy and was eventially able to get a good polish on it. If we have another job with it I will charge double for sure !

[KCWOOD]

why use a product that is only trouble?? 

[David Gerard]

I was wondering the same thing. Might look great but not perform worth a darn in the long run.

[Andy Graves]

I’m not a big of using material that are this much trouble. Never seems worth it.

[KCWOOD]

However, if you can sell the junk… make all the money and then expect Andy to try to fix it… it’s all about the profit … isn’t it. ?? LOL

[Andy Graves]

Yea, great plan.

[Wags]

Not every product is correct for every situation. Someone didn’t do their job and point out it’s not the right product, no matter how great it looks, for a high use area..

Sometimes the best job is the one you walk away from.

[Author]

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