[Len Smith]

We don’t have a laser, or a photo-top, because almost all the work we do is multiple unit, cookie cutter work.  Lately we’ve been doing more one of a kind things that come along with the regular work (lobby desks, reception tops, etc.)

What is your favorite low tech method of making a template of long tops with radii?  Paper, 1/8″ luan strips, plywood, or ?

[KCWOOD]

Len, I have always used 1/4″ luan. I’ve never had a top have to have to be re-cut once it hit the cabinet. I did a huge bank job with a very large radius. I used 1/4″ then made a 1/2 ” mdf template, to cut the final shape. I posted that under “poor man’s CNC”

There might be a independent stone templater in your area with a proliner. He could do the hard stuffand get it to you DXF. 

[Gene McDonald]

Len, I use templast…you can get sheets at sign supply store…I like it..because no matter how bigya make it..you can cut it and fold up the strips

[Bill Wolle]

Len, Templast

[Len Smith]

Looked up Kelsey’s “Poor Man’s CNC” thread, nice job there! Will also google Templast, sounds like a good option also.

[Karl Crooks]

Len if you are doing field templates that need to be shipped to your shop this stuff or something like it is pretty cool. We have made the templates with it, rolled them up and mailed them in a tube to the Fab shop. The tops are made, the original template is taped to the finished tops so we know it was made right, the tops are shipped to the job site, we show up and install them. 

TemplatePro™ Templating Kit

TemplatePro™ Templating Kit consists of 40 templating strips and one can of adhesive packed in a handy carrying case. TemplatePro™ templating strips are made of 0.04” thick High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS). Each strip is 2-1/4” wide by 96” long. HIPS is a high-strength, impact modified thermoplastic ideally suited for countertop templating. It can be assembled with solvent based adhesives and is unaffected by water. When the template is complete, it can be rolled up for transport/shipment to the fabrication shop. The material can be reused. It can be written on with permanent marker, and when the template is no longer needed, the markings can be removed with de-natured alcohol. HIPS will deform very little before it breaks. Which means if it gets broken, it can easily be patched. The repaired template will have not lost any of its original accuracy. TemplatePro™ templating adhesive is a medium bodied, low V.O.C. quick-setting solvent adhesive for use with TemplatePro™ templating strips. It is manufactured for FabQuick™ by IPS WELD-ON. It comes in a 4oz can with a dobber attached to the lid. View the MSDS.

[John Christensen]

I bought one of those kits at an ISSFA show about 7 years ago.  I specifically bought it because I knew that I was going to be doing counter tops for my Son, Andy, in San Diego.  About 1000 miles from my shop.  Rolled the template up and put them in a tube, as Karl said and took them on the plane back home.  Counter  tops fit without retouching, including an onsite seam.

For templating, Andy paid for my airfare to fly down and while I was there he took me to his favorite Sushi restaurant and gave me a sushi lesson and how to drink Saki.

Now back to templating.  You need to be very sure that the strips are laying dead flat when making the templates and that the templates lay dead flat on the tops when you mark them out.  A couple of small 1/8″ waves in the strips could change the angle of an “L” top considerably.

Not the best lighting for a picture but his top had a coved backsplash that notched around a plaster window detail.  I needed less than 1/16″ caulk at the walls.  There was also had a matching “L” shaped top to the left of the stove.

It is crazy what we will do for our kids.  My wife and I spent 34 hrs driving round trip and only 23 hrs at my sons house.

Johnny c

[Len Smith]

Some really good info here on templating! And John, next time you come out here to visit your kids, let me know. I’m in North San Diego County. 

By the way, just got back from a sushi lunch with my bride of 30 years.  Ya gotta love sushi.

Len

[John Christensen]

I will try to make it a point. I would love to see your operation. Yeah, It could be a Fabnet gathering.

Johnny c

[Andy Graves]

I use 1/8 luan door skin for straight stuff. Cut in 2″ stirps and the temp will stay nice and ridgid. Not movement will mean it will translate nice. Problem is it is difficult to transport and you get splinters.

The plastic is neat but it changes shape especially if you have a vertical digitizer. Not good, don’t use it if anything is vertical.

We use non-corrugated cardboard for the round stuff. Make sure you don’t leave out in the weather because it gets deformed quick.

[Len Smith]

We have a very cool curved bar top coming up in an historical rehab for UCI. I’ll take a couple of these methods with us, so we can try more than one. Then we’ll bring them back and digitize them on our CNC. Pics to follow.

[Norm Walters]

I use to use door skins but they are no longer available at the big box stores here.  Now I am using sheet insulation that is about an 1/8″ thick and comes in 4′ x 8′ sheets at Lowes.   I rip it into 2″ strips with my table saw and it cuts easy with tin snips and holds well with hot glue.

[KCWOOD]

Norm, what in the world are you talking about?  Can you post a pic of it, the next time you use it??? I’ve never seen it at our Lowes…

[David Gerard]

Hi Norm, are you refering to luan 1/8″ ply? Thats what we use, I sure woul like to get some of that sign stuff Gene uses.

[Lenny E]

Low Tech Rules! 

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