[Countertop Artisans]

I was called to see if I could repair a countertop. It’s 15 yrs old, and no material was left behind. The two ares in question were the front corner of a drop in range top. There were no  supports in the corners and no heat shield. Of course, the heat expanded that one and cracked it.
 The other one is the puzzler. It’s a small island (4′ x 5′) with a 7″ overhang. I know it’s one inch more than Corian recommends without a support system but it cracked along the glue line that is over the cabinets. The crack is both through the top surface as well as the seam plate.
I can understand the seam cracking on the top sheet, but why would it crack both the surface as well as the seam plate? I would assume the seam plate would provide enough support to prevent the seam from cracking. The homeowner claims nothing heavy was set on that area.

My main concern is how can I repair those areas and get a color match if no extra material was left behind? I suggested that from the seam to the edge of the island, (about 14 inches) be of a different color as well as the bump out in front of the stovetop or would that look totally odd?

Just looking for some suggestions on how to approach this repair without replacing the entire countertop.

[Steve , NY]

Do they have a backsplash on the top that you could possibly use ? What we did on one repair, installed a 24″ wide butcher block top right beside the stove and used the removed material for the repair, the customer was very pleased when we were done. ( not everyone likes butcher block)

[Sue Turner]

I’m with Steve. If at all possible pull from splash and redo splash in a different color or even tile.

[Karl Crooks]

Rick, you should be able to rob material from under the drop in range top to do all of the repairs.

I’m sure you know by now, but don’t believe everything the home owner tells you.

Let me know if you have any added questions, we have done this more time than I can count.

Thanks

[Countertop Artisans]

Karl,
What material under the drop in range??? The homeowners only had the place for a couple of years and knew of no extra material being left. I didn’t see anything under the drop in range that could make the repair. There wasn’t even the proper corner supports. The bumpout in front of the range is 4inches and the distance from the seam to the edge of the island is about 14 inches.

If I peel off the seam plate under the island, is it possible to break the seam and reglue it again?

[John Christensen]

Rick,

I think what Karl means is this.  If the range flange overlaps the cutout by say 3/8″ or more.  You may be able to cut at least a 1/4″ strip from the edge of the cutout in order to do a 1/4″ router groove repair.  It doesn’t matter what color material you use for the corner blocks and seam strap.

I have seen one instance where the customer had used an electric fry pan directly over the seam.  when the deck material got hot it wanted to deflect up at the heated area.  This placed stress on the glue seam and it released right at the seam.  Once a crack starts it can telegraph right through the seam strap.  Does that seem right to you Karl?

Johnny C

[Karl Crooks]

As John said….

Draw a line all around the cooktop, then pull the cooktop and you will see how much material you have to work with. You would be shocked at what we have fixed with just small amounts of color match.

Yes once a crack in the material starts it will just keep growing, right thru reinforcement strips, corner blocks, sinks, etc, ect.

Think of a seam split that starts off straight and then veers off into the counter.

Post up some photos if you like and let us know if you have any other questions, happy to help.

[Karl Crooks]

Posted By John Christensen on 12 Apr 2013 01:22 PM

Rick,

I think what Karl means is this.  If the range flange overlaps the cutout by say 3/8″ or more.  You may be able to cut at least a 1/4″ strip from the edge of the cutout in order to do a 1/4″ router groove repair.  It doesn’t matter what color material you use for the corner blocks and seam strap.

I have seen one instance where the customer had used an electric fry pan directly over the seam.  when the deck material got hot it wanted to deflect up at the heated area.  This placed stress on the glue seam and it released right at the seam.  Once a crack starts it can telegraph right through the seam strap.  Does that seem right to you Karl?

Johnny C

Johnny, yes we have seen this and also seen it from extreme cold like thawing out a turkey on the counter.

Extreme Heat or Cold to fast can cause issues with all materials not just solid surface.

[Andy Graves]

That cooktop idea is wonderful. Never thought of it but a crack doesn’t have to be fixed with a 1/2″ wide piece of material.

[Jim Heaphy]

Based on 20 years of repairing solid surface countertops almost every working day. I estimate the chance that excessive heat exposure caused the seam separation at 99%. Likely causes include crock pots, electric frying pans, deep fat fryers, George Foreman griddles, and hot roasting pans taken from the oven and placed on a crappy little pot holder. Often, a straight edge placed over the damaged area will show slight sagging or rippling of the material due to thermoforming.

[Tom M]

One way or another, temperature is the problem. It could even be wood build up wedged between the solid surface build up, with no contraction room. Then the top was cooled to the point that it contracted against the wood build up. Something had to give.

I don’t see from your post how far the cracks in the island seam extend into the deck, but you could always cut a new seam and glue up a different color border around the island perimeter to make up the loss. It could be a nice feature piece.

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