[Gene McDonald]

fellow fabnetters heres an idea that could help out possibly…inlay an edge of the cabinet material like we useta do with the SS sandwich look

This jos coming out great I’ll have it finished tomorrow, I like the yellow farmers sink too

this kitchen is like an candy commercial…Yo you got Hickory in my chocolate, hey you got chocolate in my Hickory…hmmmmm lets make a kitchen outta it..i dont know who brought da banana though

[Andy Graves]

That is bitchen Gene. I like the look of the wood with the rich dark counter material. You doing a fair amount of PaperStone?

[Un-Authorized]

Gene:

I’m assuming that you’ve built up the edge of the paperstone and routed a veneer-thickness-deep rabbet for the inlay?

Joe

[Tom M]

What was the oil you finished it with, Gene?

[Gene McDonald]

Andy~ yes I am, But to 5 slabs a month is great, to some people that might not be as great..thanx for the complimentos

kowboy~ yes I built up the three quarter then router a half inch strip on center

Tom ~ carnuba wax,…mineral and vegatable oil are ok too…I dont like the vegetable oil, here in Florida attracts big bugs I would think???

heres some fab pics see how the strip hides the buildup seam line

[Andy Graves]

When you run the router along the deck to cut the edge, how do you remove the scratches from the router base?

[Gene McDonald]

Andy My man…I hope i dont sound sarcastic but that question might have numerous answers…

1) tighten the screws on your router base into the plate
2) if its cracked base, change it
3) put masking tape on bottom of router base or laminate
4) lay down 6″ strip of laminate (not glued up)and lay router on top
5) sand out scratches with 180 grit sandpaper if you do get them
6) if ya cant change the cracked base, glue fill with epoxy, then belt sand flat….that should be enough there partner..hope it helps

try one of those …

[Andy Graves]

I typically get the dust from the cuttings up under the base of the router.  Then it scratches the deck along the edge.

[Un-Authorized]

Gene:

Thanks for the pics. I am concerned that the size of your wood inlay, with much less dimensional stability than the paperstone surrounding it, may cause future problems.

Let’s suppose that kiln-dried hickory wakes up one morning and decides to inhale a large dose of Floridian humidity and subsequently expands. I think the bond between the paperstone build-ups would lose in an arguement with the hickory.

That would not be the case if the hickory were +1/16″ thick, set in a -1/16″ deep rabbet and sanded flush. It would be indistinguishable from your method except having fewer butt joints and consistent grain direction. It would require no routing, require less material and have the advantage of wrapping around radii easily. I’d contact cement it into the rabbet and skip the clamp step too. Repairs are much easier. When chrome Chemmetal comes back in style, you can change the inlay on site and charge ’em again.

Good luck,

Joe

P.S.:

It looks great.

[Gene McDonald]

Joe, that is a way I do Bamboo, I agree with you on the waste…but the seperation might be difficult as I screwed the bottom build-up into the deck away from the rabbet bit, it also has epoxy CA-5 adhesive..

but I realized that same thing with the bamboo i was doing, i was cutting the Plyboo the same width as the buildup (sandwich)…I wasted so much material experimenting…the butt joints are requested, believe it or not..the cabinets are rustic looking close up…I will make sure next time when I router the edge, i have a bigger bearing on the bit so i dont go in so deep.

thanks for the heads up, Joe i know i dont know ya too well, but if ever you see something that i can do better and make me a better fabricator..please speak up..I am constantly learning and I jst cant stop with my designs and the attitude to think I can create it…im not sure if that is good or bad…I cross my fingers alot……..I just think this industry is my gig….
i give everyone permission to help me out on here, I love my job

[Un-Authorized]

Gene:

I appreciate all your fastners and adhesives, but if that hickory expands and there is no accomodating space, something’s gonna give. Maybe you’ll get a no-drip edge. Sorry, I’m teasing, I just couldn’t resist.

I think guys having the guts to show their work and methods subject to arm-chair quarterbacks like me demonstrate the value of this site and those like it.

Thanks for accepting my comments in the spirit in which they were intended, I struggle with my tone sometimes.

Your attitude to think you can create it will serve you well if my experience is any indicator. I bid on a commercial job years ago that had sixteen 8″spherical maple Newall post caps specified by the architect. I suggested sixteeen high-gloss Corian (black with white specks) spheres. I had no idea how to make them, but I pulled a number out of my butt and got the order! They turned out great.

I was scared out of my mind, it was very challenging, but I’d do it again in a heartbeat if there were any work in Michigan. I think I even made money. Sorry, no pics, digital cameras weren’t  invented back then.

Joe

[Gene McDonald]

 as im cleaning my screen for spitting popcorn all over it lMAO..hehehehe the no drip edge…dat wuz funny…i wonder if i can charge more for the surprise swelled no drip rustic edge… i also can say its a lock for the base cabinet drawers, they will only open up 3/4″ then will meet a sudden stop..hehehe…

[Un-Authorized]

Posted By Gene McDonald on 07/26/2008 8:39 PM
 i wonder if i can charge more for the surprise swelled no drip rustic edge…

Gene:

Yes, you can charge more for the surprise swelled no drip rustic edge, don’t forget my royalty payment, please.

I’m glad you didn’t choke on the popcorn,

Joe

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