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A couple questions regarding backsplashes:
(1) A measurer (NOT the fabricator) told me that non-radiused (butt-joint, non-coved) backsplashes are attached onsite, and attached with caulking. Again, I haven’t confirmed this with the fabricator yet, but … is that a standard practice? I thought they would be glued with the color-matched adhesive, just like a seam (or a coved backsplash, for that matter.)
(2) I was told (by the fabricator this time) that they caulked the seam between the backsplash and the wall surface with a bright-white paintable acrylic-latex caulk (e.g. DAP). He asserted that the painter could paint over this seam with the wall color if desired, but I’ve yet to see any painter do a really good job of this. (Note: I understand that both the splash and the countertop will be attached to their respective surfaces with dabs of 100% silicone adhesive. I guess I don’t care what color THIS is, since hopefully no one will ever see it during the service life of the top.) It seems to me that this seam to the wall surface would look better if it were caulked with something that matched the color of the splash (in this case, Corian Aruba, which is basically gray. The walls are pretty close to white.) What do you guys normally use in this application, and do you try to match (or harmonize with) the countertop color?
Thanks,
gb
geebee, I’m a little confused at the part where the painters are going to cover the caulk line. A paintable latex caulk when gone over by the painter should be un-seeable. As far as the backsplash, it amazes me people are still buying expensive “color matched” caulk from the big SS sheat manufactures when a product like AXIOM translucent silicone matches ANY color within a + or – 8 shade range. Corian Aruba? AXIOM GRAY or any other shade of gray for that matter.
FEDSAWDAVE wrote
geebee, I’m a little confused at the part where the painters are going to cover the caulk line. A paintable latex caulk when gone over by the painter should be un-seeable.
Well, maybe I’ve never seen a really good painter cover a caulk line like that. You know, the caulk line is never razor-straight; so what do you do? You can put tape on the Corian, but you still wind up getting some paint on the Corian. And some guys get a LOT of paint on the Corian (or granite, etc.) I know some painters can “cut in” a line at a corner like that BY HAND (i.e. no masking); I’ve never actually watched someone do that, but I’m pretty much in awe of the skill!!
And, depending on the skill of the applier and the waviness of the wall, you can get a caulk line that’s maybe 1/4″ thick or more. Even with paint, I don’t think that would be “unseeable”.
Seems like it would look better if a colored caulk (like AXIOM Gray, ferinstance) were used, and then the color would overlap onto the wall surface. But then again, I don’t KNOW. You guys have dealt with this thousands of times, and know what works, what looks good and what doesn’t. What’s your experience?
Thanks for the tip on the AXIOM, Dave.
gb
The process we use is as follows;
For set-on splashes the seam between the splash and the countertop deck is adhered with Axiom translucent 100% silicone, the splash to the wall is only adhered with hot melt adhesive. This process allows the splash to stay adhered to the deck at all times as things will eventually settle and shift the hot melt will give way and allow the splash to move with the countertop while remaining tight to the deck. The top of the splash will be caulked with an acrylic-latex caulking that is paintable if necessary to match colored wall paint. If the wall is white there is no reason to have it painted, we will also use clear in some cases. This is a very common practice in this industry.
If you have done much caulking you would understand how difficult if not impossible it is to use a colored caulking against a light colored wall with out having it bleed up the wall and look like crap. If the caulking needs to be matched to the wall color it is common practice to have the painters touch it up to match. It does not happen much but the ones that I have seen look pretty good. I think you would find that a skilled painter would have no problem doing this without masking it off or making a mess. The walls would have to be pretty bad to leave a ¼ gap with a set on splash that usually will flex into the variations of the wall, there is only so much an installer can do.
Shane
geebee, when the backspash is caulked to the wall, the caulk will bridge both the wall and the Corian slightly, the paint line will actually look like it is on the Corian, but remember you do have some caulk on the Corian first, so the paint will stick to the caulk and since your paint like is now on a smooth surface you can run a nice paint line.
Shane wrote
…
If you have done much caulking you would understand how difficult if not impossible it is to use a colored caulking against a light colored wall with out having it bleed up the wall and look like crap.
Well, that’s pretty much exactly the kind of answer I was looking for!!
Clearly, I have little or no experience in the above situation. Thanks, Shane (and Norm too).
gb
geebee, AXIOM being a 100% translucent silicone would be for the backsplash only and not the top of it as I don’t know of anyone painting over 100% silicone. Acylic Latex…yes and I guess a painter that cared would help out the situation.
If you ever have to paint over 100% silicone it can be done, you have to prime it with oil based KILZ or a similar product first. Been there done that.
Interesting Norm but in geebee’s situation, I don’t think the painters would take that step unless pressured. There are plenty of brands of paintable caulk on the market to get that job done although I’ll submit that if they are using some 99 a cent crud caulk then they’re getting the quality that that allows.
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