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Anyone dealt with significantly bowed estone splashes? This thing was out a few inches over maybe 100” of length. I used some hotmelt and a suction cup to ………………..uhmmmmm……….help it find the wall. The end splash was well siliconed to the deck to hold the whole thing in place.
Chris
The splash was bowed 1-2 inches??? What brand was it?I work with 3 cm Silestone, Cambria, Caesearstone, and occasional Zodiaq and I’ve never seen a spash bowed more than probably 1/4″ at 118″ length. I know you can flex it a little with persuasion but 1-2 inches??? What was the thickness and height of the splash?
I work with alot of e-stone and have never seen that. After the install did the hot melt actually hold it? Ive seen splashes bent but not that much. Zodiaq?
All,
When I uloaded the trailer I put all the splashes (3.5 inches) together in one spot to be marked for cutting to length. I normally clamp them in the middle while they are waiting to be marked. Couldn’t do it as the 100” piece was standing off of all the other an inch or so in the middle. The ends cupped towards you if you were facing the face of the splash.
When it came time to install one end was bound by another fairly long splash and I put a little hot melt on it and push it to the wall(bead board not sheetrock). Remember the bow away from the wall was double b/c the other end was on the wall. Once in place I put a suction cup in front of it to hold it and went about doing other things. When I removed the cup I really did not expect thy hot melt to hold. But it did. I put the last splash on (it bound the hot melted end) and caulked everybody in place. I am goin back to the site on Wed to finish one last thing and will check to see if anythig has moved.
I do not know if they had any problems with the rest of the
sheetslab (gotta stop saying sheet, thie stuff is heavy) or not (we sub out fabrication of stone). I have some other things to run through with the fabricator on Moday and will check with them then.It was a “new” color for a major brand. Let me contact them first.
Chris
Mark,
It was 3cm. They end stood 2 inches or so off the wall when I went to set it. Not sure if that counts as a 2 inch bow on the end or a 1inch bow in the middle. Regardless, it was much more than I had anticipated and I pretty much expected it break, also.
I will see on Wed.
Chris
it is important to remember that engineered stone is under internal tensions. these forces are unleashed when the slab is cut. sometimes rips will warp…. sometimes whole slabs come in warped.
we found out the hard way when we plunge cut into the center of a piece of caesarstone. we started the bridge saw in the center of the slab and cut towards the outer edge of the slab. everything was going fine until the very front of the saw blade cleared the slab. once the last bit of material was gone the slab actually pinched the saw blade to a stop. remember this is a 20 hp 3 phase direct drive motor already spinning full speed brought to a hault instantly!! The slab was under tensions that were otherwise unapparent until the slab was comprimised. this has actually happened to us more than once in a variation of ways. needless to say we wasted that $400 blade trying to get it free. better the blade than the slab i guess…
Yea! You have to be really careful about that. I try not to plunge cut ES. I’ve had it happen in the past and wipe out blades. Now we drive in composite shims to make sure the stone doesn’t bind the blade.
Wow,
Thanks for posting that.This is the kind of stuff all manufacturers need to see and be aware of. Ive seen some really strange things happen with residual stress in sheets and slabs, but never to the extent you all are describing. My gut feel is this is a manufacturing driven problem that can mitigated and reduced with proper attention to manufacturing process.
I would suspect partial settling of quartz filler to one side of the slab during vibratory compaction, and uneven cure to be the main culprits.(Id look at those 2 first).
B Rgds,
Lenny
Chris,
You should be able to straighten the splash in the oven.
When we have a wall that is evenly bowed, more than would look good with caulking, we heat the splash in the oven and form to suit. We also form the front edge of a curved top if it is long enough and not too much of a curve.
This does work with Quartz but not with Stone, !!!!Can’t seem to get the oven hot enough for stone!!!!
Good Luck,
Jim
what temperature and how long do you heat your engineered for? also what thickness are you bending? 2 or 3 cm? i have a reception desk with a bowed front. i need to make an apron 5″ tall. i thought i would be stuck using corian instead of zodiaq. i have an oven capable of 450 degrees or so. please enlighten me.
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