[JasonCarr]

Hello gentlemen, I hope you all have  a safe 4th with your families….

I finally have my first kitchen job with a coved splash upsale.  My question is  the top has to go between 2 walls and there are some door moldings that will cause dome problems as well.

Do you guys  put long runs of back splash on in the shop and transporting the top on edge OR do you do prep work ( the rabbit and  gluing of the shoe piece and the back spalsh) and then set the top in place  and then glue the backsplash in  and scrap the lines and repolish????

I have a betterly cove router and can cove the corners after the pieces are glued..

I believe I’m over looking   a simple solution so I’m throwing it out:)  I’m not really sure I charged enough  for the coving upgrade  but I know we aren’t allowed to openly talk about prices . the price is well less than 40.00 per linear foot…..If someone would be willing to PM mme and give me their thoughts on the pricing andthe install job I’d be greatly appreciative..  Thanks  J

[Andy Graves]

We do wall to wall cove and put a seam in the middle of the countertop. We do all the coving in the shop and the only sanding left in the field is the seam.

It is difficult and unpredictable when you try to do seams in the field. If there is a problem, it is almost impossible to fix in a timely fashion.

Make sure you fit the seam in the shop to ensure a perfect fit. Then doing the seam is pretty straight forward. Still leave the countertop about 1/8″ short depending on overall length. Make the gap at the end walls even and you shouldn’t have a problem caulking the gap.

Hope that answers your question. Feel free to ask some more if It wasn’t clear.

Andy

[JasonCarr]

Thank you sir, Do you transport your tops horizontal or flat and just supported every couple of feet???

[Andy Graves]

We transport everything flat on a flatbed truck.

[Author]

Posts