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May 21, 2009 at 7:37 am #3662Steve MehanMember
Here are a few shop pics of a butcher block we did with a cove backsplash.
I have customers ask all the time if it can be done. When I say yes they just about all go for it.May 21, 2009 at 10:23 am #52159Brian StoneMemberIt looks like good craftsmanship but I just don’t like the look of butcherblock.
I think the coved backsplash reminds me even more of all of the nasty laminate butcher block out there.
May 21, 2009 at 11:42 am #52162WayneMemberWe do butcherblock.
We do coves.
We’ve never put 2&2 together.
Thanks Steve for the idea!May 21, 2009 at 11:56 am #52165Brian StoneMemberWhy did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing “butcherblock” on that section too?
May 21, 2009 at 12:01 pm #52166Steve MehanMemberThanks guys,
We do a fair amount of them. Mostly maple & oak. The one pictured had a drop in sink but usually we do undermounts.
A lot of our customers do center islands in the butcher block.
One job I did I no sooner put in the island in and the home owner took out the bread and made a sandwich and yes the knife came out as well. Hey thats what it’s ment for.May 21, 2009 at 12:04 pm #52167Steve MehanMemberPosted By Brian_Stone on 21 May 2009 11:56 AM
Why did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing “butcherblock” on that section too?I’ve done it both ways, but most people said they would prefer the solid board.
May 21, 2009 at 12:42 pm #52168Steve MehanMemberCenter island with undermount
May 22, 2009 at 7:02 am #52179Jon OlsonMemberSteve nice work. A couple of questions1-How do you handle warping problems? Isn’t there a suggestion way to store butcher block?2-How do you install BB? I’ve been told that if you screw the top down like a laminate top the wood will crack.May 22, 2009 at 12:15 pm #52183Steve MehanMemberJon,
On large pieces like this island, I will rout a channel in the bottom and insert a 1″ piece of square box steel. I will drill oversized holes in the steel for screws to allow for expansion and contraction, and then place a few screws in the bottom of the BB. I always use this when I have overhangs.
When I install them I will again drill an oversized hole in the corner blocks for the screws. Again I do not tighten them, I leave a little play for expansion and contraction. It doesnt take many screws to keep it in place.
If both sides are not sealed they will warp. But once they are sealed there fine.
I do three different finishes. Minerial Oil, Tung Oil, or Urethane. Some finishes are better suited then others depending on what the customers use will be.May 22, 2009 at 2:06 pm #52186Andy GravesKeymasterFancy top. Do you construct the cove on wood like you do on solid surface? Seem this would be a nice, profitable upgrade.
September 2, 2009 at 5:54 pm #53992Steve MehanMemberMaple BB with Tung Oil Finish
September 2, 2009 at 5:59 pm #53993John ChristensenMemberVery nice work Steve. How do you make certain that water will not become an issue over time at the seam?
Johnny C
September 2, 2009 at 6:12 pm #53995Steve MehanMemberJohnny,
With this seam I have used Titebond 3 and have done many over the years with no problems with water. This top is finished with 6 coats of waterlox tung oil and buffed with a grey scotchbrite, the end grain is also sealed well with 6 coats. I spline the seam and use draw bolts below.
September 2, 2009 at 7:26 pm #53997Andy GravesKeymasterDo you sand the seam like you would with solid surface? The cove on the wood is a really cool idea.
September 2, 2009 at 7:50 pm #54000Steve MehanMemberAndy,
Yes I do block sand it with 80 grit to give the glue a little better adhesion and the spline which fits tight keeps the two pieces flat. With the draw bolts tightend up they act as a permenent clamp. -
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