[Steve Mehan]

Here are a few shop pics of a butcher block we did with a cove backsplash.
I have customers ask all the time if it can be done. When I say yes they just about all go for it.

[Brian Stone]

It looks like good craftsmanship but I just don’t like the look of butcherblock.

I think the coved backsplash reminds me even more of all of the nasty laminate butcher block out there.

[Wayne]

We do butcherblock.
We do coves.
We’ve never put 2&2 together.
Thanks Steve for the idea!

[Brian Stone]

Why did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing “butcherblock” on that section too?

[Steve Mehan]

Thanks guys,

We do a fair amount of them. Mostly maple & oak. The one pictured had a drop in sink but usually we do undermounts.
A lot of our customers do center islands in the butcher block.
One job I did I no sooner put in the island in and the home owner took out the bread and made a sandwich and yes the knife came out as well. Hey thats what it’s ment for.

[Steve Mehan]

Posted By Brian_Stone on 21 May 2009 11:56 AM
Why did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing “butcherblock” on that section too?

I’ve done it both ways, but most people said they would prefer the solid board.

[Steve Mehan]

Center island with undermount

[Jon Olson]

Steve nice work. A couple of questions

 

1-How do you handle warping problems? Isn’t there a suggestion way to store butcher block?

 

2-How do you install BB? I’ve been told that if you screw the top down like a laminate top the wood will crack.

 

[Steve Mehan]

Jon,

On large pieces like this island, I will rout a channel in the bottom and insert a 1″ piece of square box steel. I will drill oversized holes in the steel for screws to allow for expansion and contraction, and then place a few screws in the bottom of the BB. I always use this when I have overhangs. 

When I install them I will again drill an oversized hole in the corner blocks for the screws. Again I do not tighten them, I leave a little play for expansion and contraction. It doesnt take many screws to keep it in place.

If both sides are not sealed they will warp. But once they are sealed there fine.
I do three different finishes. Minerial Oil, Tung Oil, or Urethane. Some finishes are better suited then others depending on what the customers use will be.

[Andy Graves]

Fancy top. Do you construct the cove on wood like you do on solid surface? Seem this would be a nice, profitable upgrade.

[Steve Mehan]

Maple BB with Tung Oil Finish

[John Christensen]

Very nice work Steve.  How do you make certain that water will not become an issue over time at the seam?

Johnny C

[Steve Mehan]

Johnny,

With this seam I have used Titebond 3 and have done many over the years with no problems with water. This top is finished with 6 coats of waterlox tung oil and buffed with a grey scotchbrite, the end grain is also sealed well with 6 coats. I spline the seam and use draw bolts below.

[Andy Graves]

Do you sand the seam like you would with solid surface? The cove on the wood is a really cool idea.

[Steve Mehan]

Andy,
Yes I do block sand it with 80 grit to give the glue a little better adhesion and the spline which fits tight  keeps the two pieces flat. With the draw bolts tightend up they act as a permenent clamp.

[Author]

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