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Fissures are prevalent in this material and should be of little concern once the tops are set in place and well supported. They tend to be more problematic to us fabricators when we are moving and handling the pieces.
As for the dark spots, I agree with Chris……those appear to be lackluster repair attempts at filling saw marks. I would see if the fabricator can dig out and repair those with a better color match. If they are unable/unwilling, then a discount might be another option if you are prepared to live with them as-is.I looked at your pic – that does not look like a stain to me.
Material looks to be Brazil Black/Black Aracruz.Most true black granites like yours are very difficult to actually stain.Looks like one of the following:* A color enhancing sealer was applied to the surface (unevenly) to make the material appear “darker”. This is only at the surface level and can be removed by a professional with chemicals (Tenax makes one specifically for this situation).or* Another poster above mentioned in that this looks like a variation in the surface finish – possibly caused in the fabricator’s shop. A refinishing professional with some MB-20 compound should be able to blend to match the surface finish.You could contact the MIA (Marble Institute of America) or the SFA (Stone Fabricators Alliance) to find a professional in your area. Good luck!It can be re-honed in the field.
I personally like the 3M Scotch-Brite non-woven 6″x9″ finishing pads.
Typically 7448 (Light Grey) works great for me on honed stone surfaces.
They can be used dry or with a little water – just scrub by hand.Bucks County
If you’re interested in stone, there are a few SFA guys that have posted positions available recently. You can check them out over at http://www.stonefabricatorsalliance.com
IPT Sinks has a method for mounting their basic 60/40 Offset and 50/50 stainless steel undermount sinks in laminate countertops. They can supply a solid surface trim ring and adhesive that can me mounted for rigidity and to keep moisture away from the particle board underneath. Here’s a video:
That is a chemical company based in Brazil. Innovare is the manufacturer/product, and Noxy Chemicals is the distributor/agent. Both are located in Cachoeiro, Esprito Santo, Brazil.
http://www.innovare.ind.br is Innovare’s websiteHere’s a link to the product brochure (in Portugese):A comparable product available in the US and Europe would be Tepox V from Tenax. It’s available in many colors. Many of the major tooling distributors carry Tenax products and should be able to help.Definitely not unreasonable Steve! I don’t know where you’re located or your template method, but we fab & ship nationwide. We cut from various levels of customer-supplied information. Some send us complete electronic DXF files, others send us traditional templates, which we then digitize, add cutouts and create a final shop drawing prior to fabbing. If you’ve got another local fabricator that works well with you, then keep on building that relationship. It should be a winning proposition for all involved.
Posted By Lenny E on 28 May 2012 10:54 AM
I have to agree with your astute observation, treating the stone yourself, allows you to adjust for the imperfections inherent in a particular slab of a natural product.You call them imperfections, I call them natural differences.
Minerals are single elements. Stone (granite) is made up of multiple minerals with various bonds between those elements. No two stones are the same. Each one should be tested and treated (sealed) accordingly.Andy,
I personally agree with you that it is NOT suitable for use as a countertop. I try to dissuade customers who gravitate towards similar materials. Unfortunately, the layers of mica that just flake apart are also what makes it so sparkly and beautiful. Cutsomers get whatever they are willing to pay for – we educate, but don’t dictate.We have had to work with similar materials in recent years, and they require additional steps during fabrication and additional care from the homeowner.In the shop, we tape and epoxy all edges that are to be finished prior to machining or polishing. Build a tape dam, and use plenty of penetrating poly/epoxy on those edges. It will help immensely in holding them together during further fabrication. When polishing, DO NOT spend too much time with any of the grits. It polishes somewhat easily, just go fast and with plenty of water. You will still get some flaking and blowout, so be prepared to stop to fill them, then go on with finishing.It can be surface polished to repair damaged areas (at the install), but if the additional care is taken in shop preparation, you can eliminate most problems in the field. Good luck!AKA names for similar materials include: Matrix, Metallica, Cianitus, and many more.http://www.tablelegs.com/
Has some DIY wood table bases, legs, and parts.Kurt, we can help you if you need stone or quartz. If you want someone physically in the Nashville area, I could give a recommendation or two.
Joseph,
1) The proliner has a 5mm ball on the end of the measuring stylus. Selecting “left” or “right” compensation adds (or subtracts) 2.5mm from the surface being measured, BUT you have to be PERFECTLY consistent (CW or CCW) measuring for it to offset to the correct side. We typically use “center” (or no) compensation. When you put the 5mm ball against the wall, the reading will be 2.5mm off the wall (about 1/10 of an inch). We find that spacing to be helpful when installing confined pieces, and easy enough to caulk without any complaints.
2) The first three points determine a “flat” plane that all other points will be projected onto. I usually pick two points along the front edge of the sink cabinet, then a point at the back of the cabinet. I always go left-front, right-front, then back. That should bring the rest of your measurements closer to horizontal on the screen.Hope this helps. Good luck and happy templating!
