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We use 3/4″ X 3/4″ tube steel siliconed to the underside of the countertop where it’s needed, then dado out 15/16″ MDF (BTW…we use water resistant MDF) to cover the steel and finish the cantilever underside. We buy our tube steel in 20′ lengths, then cut it to length as we need.
We use 3/4″ X 3/4″ tube steel siliconed to the underside of the countertop where it’s needed, then dado out 15/16″ MDF (BTW…we use water resistant MDF) to cover the steel and finish the cantilever underside. We buy our tube steel in 20′ lengths, then cut it to length as we need.
We carefully tape the surfaces before assembly. Don’t touch the adhesive or tape ’til it cures. Just pull off the tape with the adhesive. We’ve done miles this way.
We have a couple of 30″ X 30″ X 1/2″ pieces.
Contact me at …
info@CarlsonCountertops.comWe’ve been using Wilsonart’s H2O water based glue for well over 20 years now without issue.
We used some of Wilsonart’s blue glue, fortunately it was on a personal project for myself (bookcases) that completely delaminated.
The H2O glue is really safe (no fumes) and works really well for us.
…Wayne.
Maybe this will help…
http://www.tricelcorp.com/tricel-honeycomb-applications/custom-cabinetry/
It’s a third party order (direct from Kohler).
Unless your a whale of a customer, can’t expect Kohler to take it back, if signed for without documentation.
Just saying…Our experience…
A few years back we ordered ~25 of the China made undermounts and ~5 were smashed.
We called Domain while the trucking company driver was still here, signed the shipper as damaged with the drivers signature.
Took pictures & emailed them to Domain.
We were credited back all the broken sinks.
…Wayne.Good point, that’s why this industry could use some kind of “absolute” standard for differentiating our finishes between mattes and high glosses…didn’t ISSFA try to do that years ago?
Anyway, one fabricator’s matte is another fabricator’s satin.Our sanding was 240, 320, 400, 600, then white scotch bright with Dani’s final finish…wet, stopped when dried.
It turned out as a strong satin, definitely not gloss (even though the pix look so).Pix do make tops look good, but the yellow really “jumped’ after Dani’s “Perfect Finish”. This is a rather crappy shot in the shop before delivery (sorry for the screwy angle)…Wayne.
Installed at a toy store, all turned out great with no visible seams. The sun actually turned out easier to fab than originally thought.
Thanks for the tip Andy, but were already into it with Corian’s and you’re right…shoulda gone with Integra, they’re already having fits in the shop with the Corian adhesive.
Bill, we’re using nothing but sharp bits on this one thank you, no white lines (yet).
Good to hear from ya Bill…Wayne Carlson.
