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We used to use 1″x2″ tube steel, but now we use 3/4″x1-1/2″ tube steel – like Tom. We are using 7/8″ or 15/16″ MDF though. The 1″x2″ is slightly thicker than 2 Corian build-ups glued together (ever since they started making it a standard 12mm), so that doesn’t wotk too well for us. I like the 3/4″x1-1/2″ since you can dado for it and conceal it above the MDF subtop. This way, the MDF is in less pieces and is easier to install too. Occasionally, we’ll use 1/2″x2″ bar steel when the span isn’t too big. We don’t see a lot of need for steel support in residential work, but we do use it frequently in commercial work to support tops where there are large spans between the millwork company’s brackets.
Nice job, Andy! It’s great when the material layout works out this way and you don’t have to put any remnants into inventory.
Hi Andy. Could you use something like this rope caulking before you put the silicone on? I’ve seen it used up under window sills where the walls weren’t finished appropriately.
When you are installing a top between walls/cabinetry, stick a decent size piece of laminate at the end that you have lifted up so it doesn’t damage the wall/cabinetry when you lower it.
Some of our installers use electric planers to scribe measured window sills, etc. Really fast once you get on to it.
A good caulk/silicone job will not be acknowledged, but a bad one (including one that isn’t the color that the customer expected) will detract from the look of everything and will be pointed out. Silicone is really hard to remove once it starts drying (from experience).
Welcome, Josh, from Lititz, PA. Keep up the enthusiasm, and you’ll go far. The FabNet is a great place to learn. There are so many knowledgeable and experienced fabricators here. Let me know if you’re ever in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area (this goes for all FabNetters). Maybe we can meet up and/or you could visit H.H. Ross.
Seth7179173259Welcome, Josh, from Lititz, PA. Keep up the enthusiasm, and you’ll go far. The FabNet is a great place to learn. There are so many knowledgeable and experienced fabricators here. Let me know if you’re ever in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area (this goes for all FabNetters). Maybe we can meet up and/or you could visit H.H. Ross.
Seth7179173259Welcome, Josh, from Lititz, PA. Keep up the enthusiasm, and you’ll go far. The FabNet is a great place to learn. There are so many experienced fabricators here. Let me know if you’re ever in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area (this goes for all FabNetters). Maybe we can meet up and/or you could visit H.H. Ross.
Seth7179173259Welcome, Josh, from Lititz, PA. Keep up the enthusiasm, and you’ll go far. The FabNet is a great place to learn. There are so many experienced fabricators here. Let me know if you’re ever in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area (this goes for all FabNetters). Maybe we can meet up and/or you could visit H.H. Ross.
Seth7179173259Zach,
Sorry for the late response. We don’t have the dxf file. Here is a link with that sink on the page: http://luxury-kitchen-worktops.co.uk/hanex.php. It looks like the sink inside dimensions are approximately 17-5/8″x29-5/8″ – not sure about the radius. I looked at a few sink sites, but didn’t see anything right on.
Hope things go/went well,
SethHere is one that is slightly larger than the size you need: http://shop.chbriggs.com/storefront…SF9TUGAUJ9
Andy,
I’m not sure how your CNC works, but on our KOMO with a Fanuc control we enter the difference in the radius (not diameter). For a .500″ diameter tool that has been sharped down to .420″, we would enter -.040 in the radius compensation.
Hope this helps,
SethTom,Do you use AutoCAD to draw your countertops? Here is a link about how to use the UCS: http://www.cadtutor.net/tutorials/autocad/ucs.php.LogMeIn is a program that you install on your computer that allows someone to use your computer through the internet (once you give them the username and password). You can watch what they are doing. I’d gladly show you about the UCS this way if you wanted.About the software, I wasn’t suggesting that you use other software. I was just suggesting that you make several drainboard toolpaths around the island instead of just machining it with one toolpath.Sorry about the confusion. I hope this clears things up.Seth
