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May 6, 2011 at 7:46 am #67658Brian StoneMember
Jon, I’ll still have the username and password so I can check in and keep you honest about your competition. It’s going to be tough because I know you’re a good salesman though. Who else could convince that many people that a 1/2″ sheet of plastic would make a good counter top.
I’ll be responsible for getting the finished tractors and attachments shipped out from the plant to wherever they need to go. What’s your address David? Maybe we could accidentally have one fall off a truck in your front yard.
April 29, 2011 at 8:39 am #67590Brian StoneMemberWe run Northwood SW138 routers.
http://northwoodmachine.com/Stoneworks/CNC_Machining/Models/SW138-EDS.aspx
I’d say that it takes around 6-7 minutes to use a fingerbit to make the cutout. Then about 10-15 to run 4 metal profile tools. After the part is finished running we set it up on a work bench and polish by hand using 4″ pads and a pneumatic polisher – we use Alpha AIR-658 polishers. The average kitchen sink cutout probably takes the guys 20 minutes to polish.
April 28, 2011 at 7:38 am #67587Brian StoneMemberWe cut the sink cutouts on the router.
What are you using to cut the pieces that go on the router? Are you oversizing the pieces and cutting down with a fingerbit or super Z? Are you using locating pins?
April 26, 2011 at 2:27 pm #67559Brian StoneMemberYou have the two most popular options for polishing sink cutouts. Either polish on the CNC or polish by hand. We go through 4 metals on the router and then polish by hand.
How many hours a day are you running the shop? Maybe the answer is to add more hours to the day (work multiple shifts) instead of buying more machines. Also, just how much are you doing on the machines currently? Right now are you polishing everything on the routers? What tooling are you using? Do you have any other machines that could handle the profiling and backsplash like a multi head machine or a line machine?
April 26, 2011 at 2:19 pm #67558Brian StoneMemberI’m one of those youngins that grew up using a computer so I don’t mess around.
The best I had on one was a 1.00. I think that was on a circle center.
April 26, 2011 at 10:23 am #67555Brian StoneMember4.82 / 133 on my first try.
April 18, 2011 at 12:57 pm #67392Brian StoneMemberEither that or he cut the piece short and didn’t want to waste a good piece of lumber.
I’m going to guess that to reduce costs the guy did the plumbing himself. What do you think? After all, just how hard can plumbing be anyway?
April 18, 2011 at 12:49 pm #67391Brian StoneMemberI’ve never tried it before but with granite we use a honing powder with a nylon or natural hair buffing pad. The stuff we have came from Cameron DeMille from MilleStoneMarble.com
I’ll check and see if the polishers are swamped and have them do a test piece if they have time.
April 15, 2011 at 7:30 am #67320Brian StoneMemberAndy –
Have you test driven a new Mustang? The v6 model is faster than most of the older GT’s.April 14, 2011 at 7:48 am #67296Brian StoneMemberPosted By Kelsey Crisp on 13 Apr 2011 06:08 PM
Posted By Kowboy on 13 Apr 2011 05:12 PM
While I’m not positive, it looks to me like the pieces at the seam touch in the back and widen toward the front edge. If so, this is because the installer is trying to keep the top meeting the walls at each end without too much caulk or avoiding drywall removal to make it fit or to keep consistent overhang or all three. Let’s not blame the installer yet, he may be making the best of a bad template or fabrication situation.
The color match isn’t that bad if the pieces were pulled together tightly. It looks pretty nasty.
Joe
“Lets not blame the installer” …. ARE YA FRICKING KIDDIN ME??? IF it don’t fit, don’t install it … it aint rocket science….
I’m siding with Kelsey on this one. Just because he did the best he could, it doesn’t mean that it’s good enough.
I’d much rather have overhang that’s 1/8″-1/4″ off than have that nasty seam in what is probably the most high-traffic area of the kitchen.
April 11, 2011 at 11:29 am #67222Brian StoneMemberWe use these a lot. I’m assuming that this is similar to the multi master clone that you’re referring to. Who wants to go through the trouble of actually needed to use a hand tool when there’s a similar power tool.
April 11, 2011 at 11:20 am #67219Brian StoneMemberPosted By Andy Graves on 11 Apr 2011 10:15 AM
Would you pay for that or demand that it be fixed?
It would depend on who I purchased the top from and what the expectations were before the tops were installed.
It amazes me how little research some people do on products before they throw large amounts of money down on them. If I’m spending that much money on something I’m going to know where it’s coming from, who’s fabricating it, and what I should expect the finished product to look like.
If the company that installed that happens to have a showroom and that’s what all of their seams look like then I’d demand that the top be done right. If I’m a customer and I’m just going with the cheap price and I did no research on what kind of quality to expect then I would assume that I would need to just learn my lesson and pay for quality the next time around.
April 11, 2011 at 9:40 am #67205Brian StoneMemberWell, if one of your employees installed it then you do whatever it takes. If a different company installed it get a waiver signed that you’re not responsible for collateral damage and charge by the hour.
April 11, 2011 at 7:47 am #67202Brian StoneMemberDefinitely let me know Andy. The distributor sent me an email Friday afternoon saying that they don’t have any in stock. Who is your distributor out there? I’m thinking about contacting other distributors to see if they happen to have a piece.
April 11, 2011 at 7:43 am #67201Brian StoneMemberNope. You’d think that they would at least try to get the adhesive match a little better. I’d pop it apart, clean it up, and reset with Gorilla Grips.
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