-
Posts
-
I thought I would let you all know of a reasonable way to make some work bench stringers similar to those Andy has.
I got to thinking about the way he rabbetted the plywood into the bottom flat peice and it reminded me of the engineered floor joist called TJI. My local lumber yard stocks these in 9 1/4″ height with the flange being 21/2″ wide and the center peice between the 2 made of 1/2″ wafer baord(OSB). So I was thinking these things will carry 460lb live load 16″ OC and span 14 feet no support, surely if I ripp these things in half I would get plenty of span and carry weight for making countertops. So that is what I did and so far so good can use only two sawhorses and two stringers no sag so far clear out to 12 feet. Cost for each TJI was about $1.89 per foot split it in half and makes one set. Beauty is can get these things clear up to 48 feet if really want to go nuts. Just thought I would share this info if someone looking for a good way to make the stringers and do not own a CNC to get tight joints like Andy’s.
Reuben
Great call on that one. I think in the future I will just buy what you did. probably faster than making them. Post a picture if you have one.
Even better than the TGI, which have a 2 X 4 on the top that sometimes does move, is a MicroLam. Its a beam made like plywood, but much thicker. These will never twist or warp. http://www.howelumber.com/microlam.htm
You can cut them to whatever height you meed.
Andy,
I will try and get you one tomorrow.
Wags,
You are correct about the microlams being more stable for potential twisting. The thing I like about the TJI is the 1/2″ strip will fit between sink and edge build up if you need it to. Also with the flange down you can screw it it the saw horse and keep it from potentially rolling over while flipping a top by yourself. The microlams are typically 1 1/2″ wide and would still need to put a flnge on to make more stable as not to roll over and at least in my area twice the money per foot, but definatley less likely to ever move.
Reuben
Hey Wade, We use the same method with 91/2″ bci ‘s . We made slotted wooden horses to support and contain them. We spread the 2 bci’s slightly wider than the depth of most sinks as to let the sink hang down while doing the top surface.. I have also milled and planed 2×4 ‘s 20″ long and fastened them 16″ o.c. and perpendicular the rails to raise tops to get at face finishing as not to rip up my hands.,also good to clamp to. Easy to transport.. Dave
I have used this style of stand for years. The nice thing is you can pull a stand out to make room for the sink, also when flipping the deck you can rest the back edge of the deck on the stands to eliminate any bowing of the Deck while flipping. They are fast and easy to set up for any size or shape Deck I also use them on site because they are taller than the cabinets so you have room to work on the Deck if needed.
Dani
Dano:
You forgot one of the most important features. This design of stand is very “stackable” and takes up little floor space when not in use. Stack ’em on a wheely cart.
Joe
Hey Wade , I will take photos next job. Soon. Hopefully my new forum buddy Jon will help me post them unless I figure it out first. Ours are stackable also. David G.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.