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What brand sinks and glue is everyone using for undermount sinks on laminate tops? We’ve been using Karran sinks but the last couple that we got were pretty warped.
You can use any Solid surface sink with laminate. The advantage of the Karran sink is that their rims are larger than most other brands of SS sinks. Any solid surface adhesive will work, I suggest using the same color adhesive as the sink.
You can use any Solid surface sink with laminate. The advantage of the Karran sink is that their rims are larger than most other brands of SS sinks. Any solid surface adhesive will work, I suggest using the same color adhesive as the sink.
How warped are you talkin? Karran says if you use there adhesive they will warrant the sink installation so it would probably be beneficial to buy it when you purchase the sink.
Back in the day, we used to use a router and cut the top of the flange flat. We made a little jig the sink set in and then just went around the rim creating a nice even, flat bowl.
I don’t know exactly how warped the sinks have been. The guy in the shop said that it would rock when you put it on a level surface though. When I looked at it after he had it glued up there were some sizeable air pockets in the glue. Based of off those I would say that there was at least 1/16 to 3/32 of warp.
thats a lot i havent noticed any thing like that. were they new or were they old stock stored in a hot place
I get a few warped sinks on occasion, seems more from Staron than anyone else. I place all the sinks on my table saw top and check for being flat. If it is not, I just take an old belt from my wide-belt sander and lay it on the table saw, then place the sink on it, move it around until it is sanded flat. Works great!
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Extra email:woody1125@hotmail.comI know this is a old post but we use a marine adhesive glue in the grey colour to match the stainless bowl and if the bowl is warped we just bend it to a close enough straight finish
I never thought of that. What a great glue for marine stuff.
I was thinking he meant resourcinol, but when he said Stainless I got all confused. I was thinking solid surface first.
I’ve used the 3m 5200 on both laminate with stainless undermounts and also SS undermounts. The reason I have used it with solid surface undermounts is that the 5200 still remains flexable. The stuff is extremly strong, you wont be able to pull the laminate and what ever surface you glue it to apart without breaking the laminate.
Steve, when you adhere a stainless undermount to laminate, do you use a solid surface rime or do you do a reveal undermount and glue the sink direct to the laminate?
Tom, Unless I’m using the Edge sink which has flat rim and does not have a radius edge so you can trim your laminate to the edge, I will make a solid surface rim to glue to first then glue to the lamiate.
When the Karran sinks first came out they recommended using there adhesive to bond there bowl to the bottom of laminate. I tried it and was unsucessful. Trying to transport the top in the winter it was way to flexable and the joint between the sink and laminate broke apart. I then tried some samples of different glues and the only thing that held during a freeze thaw cycle and also flexing the glue joint was the 3m marine 5200 glue. I tried to use solid surface adhesive to glue solid surface to laminate and it does bond the two together and you can rout them with a nice looking joint but the problem I had was if you get any flexing and seperation it just pops apart. When we do laminate counters and undermount solid surface sinks of any brand we us the 3m marine glue. When you prepare your top to glue the bowl to the bottom of the laminate you need to clamp it all along the perimeter because the glue is like chaulk and you need to compress the the seem tight to minimize the glue line. Once it has cured which I let for 24 hours you can rout the edge and then finish sand.
Andy, If you can clamp the seam tight the joint looks good. It is a soft seam but you cant pull the pieces apart without running the material. I only use it here cuzz its cold in the winter and the expansion and contraction that takes place going from a shop at 65 degrees top zero degrees then traveling to the job then warming back up to a persons home of maybe 75 degrees then having the top flex somewhat when carring it. It works realy well.
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