[Joseph Lovell]

Hello,

New to the forum. Could use a suggestion on a job that I have. The customer has 2″ concrete tops. Wants to go over them with Solid surface. Any suggestions.

Joe

[Reuben Hoff III]

Welcome to the board.

You might want to run this past a few people, but the first thought is tough remove all the concrete tops price you pay for thinking you may like concrete tops.

Now on the more series problem solving side here you will need to run this past the SS manufacture first. I would explain to the customer that SS in order to carry its warranty and preform like it should can not have a full substrate under it in the Kitchen areas. Now you may be able to do this with approval from manufacturer, but need to explain to customer it will create a higher countertop and much thicker looking one. I would propose a drop edge front and place a 1/2″ lattice method substrate ( front to back ) every 18″ and leave a good 1/4″ gap between drop edge and existing top now. I think that would work for most acrylics and blend material. Like I said though seek approvall first if can not get customer convinced to just tear out existing.

Do you fabricate with Swanstone at all?

reuben

[Andy Graves]

Howdy Joe,

Try this:

• Space countertop 1/2″ above concrete.
• Use all required seam supports and cooktop reinforcement corners.
• Make sure Concrete is level or at least flat
• Leave 1/4″ space between the back of edge and concrete.
• Make your spacing go from front to rear every 12 – 18″

This should work fine. I don’t know for certain that is covered under warranty, but as long as you have adequate support, seam supports and have air circulation under the counter so that heat does not get trapped between the bottom of the counter and the suptop.

I would only do this if I could not remove the concrete.

[Joseph Lovell]

No, I do not use Swanstone. We been using Hanex, Meganite, Formica for the most part. Why do you ask.?

Joe.

[Reuben Hoff III]

The swanstone would be able to be siliconed doen directly to the concrete and doing a drop edge with 1/8″ gap. Still best if can get rid of concrete top.

Andy put it alot easier to follw than me. Andy will the 1/4″ gap along the back still be okay if the use set on backsplash of tile or SS?

Reuben

[Joe Corlett]

All:

The graphs show that spacing under solid substrate doesn’t lower temperature build up substantially. Note the last question and answer.

Joe

[Andy Graves]

It states that it will be a 30 degree difference in temperature. That is with no spacing at all. But if you add spacing it will help reduce that temp.

If you cannot remove the concrete you have to do something. What other choice do you have besides spacing the top? YOu can’t loose the job because of this 30 degree difference.

Notice that the material without the support is still 190 degrees.

[Joe Corlett]

Andy:

The way I read that graph, 1/2″ and 3/4″ of spacing result in higher temperatures than no spacing at all. Am I missing something or are you?

“You can’t loose the job because of this 30 degree difference.” How lucky do you feel? I never lost money or had a callback on a job I didn’t get.

Joe

[Andy Graves]

Yea but that is with full perimeter suppot, trapping the heated air inside. I am suggesting not to put the perimiter support rather just use the front to back support every 12″. This will allow the heat to escape.

Noteice the test was from 1990 using 3/4″ material.

[John Christensen]

Joe,

As usual, excellent recourcing for the tech paper for Corian. I might have gone there myself but you beat me to it.

Andy,

All the good intentioned theorizing in the world won’t get you off the hook from owning the warranty if you don’t follow manufacturers fab specs and the job fails. In some cases depending on the manufacturer, you would own the failure even if it was not directly caused by-in this case full underlayment-the fab error. Karl C. any thoughts?

Johnny C

[Joe Corlett]

Johnny C wrote

Joe,

As usual, excellent recourcing for the tech paper for Corian. I might have gone there myself but you beat me to it.

Johnny:

Thanks. It’s about damn time I learned how to use my scanner. It took a while, but it was worth it. I finally got it posted, but it wasn’t until my wife heard me bitchin’ and double tapped my mouse pad and blew it up to legibility. Who knew?

Kickin’ and screamin’ into the 21st,

Joe

[Karl Crooks]

Jonny, makes a good point, the safest and simplest road is to follow the manufactures written guild lines as close as you can.

[Author]

Posts