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ANY TIPS ON REPLACING A SINK IN SOLID SURFACE? THIS IS A NEW TERRITORY FOR ME.
HOW LONG DOES THIS NORMALLY TAKE TO DO?
CUTTING OLD SINK OUT?
CLAMPING NEW SINK?
ANDY TIPS OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
WADE[EMO]confuse.gif[/EMO]
Wade,
The first time you do this it will take a few hours after that, if it ever happens again, it will be considerably shorter. The new fabrication manual from Staron shows some great photos of how to do this, which will help a lot more than me telling you over the forum. Try to get a manual. I believe Kevin Andreas put their manual together, he is the repair master. If you want, call me at my office and I can help you out. (239)-334-1151.
John C.
The Staron Fabrication Manual is in the “Resources” section on this website.
Tools Needed:
- Router with Sink removal bit (make sure base will clear backsplash)
- Zip Walls or some other form of barrier to keep area clean (Very Messy)
- Support or Another person to get under the sink to hold it when it seperates from the counter
- 2×4 and clamps to hold the new one in place
Everybody has a different way of doing things but this works for me. Just set up Zip Walls and make a little room around the sink. Cut the sink out with a sink removal bit. Make sure you set the bit real accurate so you cut all the sink off. Use a steady hand. You don’t want a jagged.
I can’t stress enough that the sink needs to be supported from the bottom. When that sink breaks away from the counter it will be heavy. We usually have a guy lay underneath the sink and hold it. Be sure to cover the drain holes.
After you remove the sink just glue on the new one. Expect a lot more sanding this time because the new sink won’t fit exact.
Good luck and contact me if you have any questions.
IMPORTANT!
Another thing to do is put some tape about 1/4″ from the top of the new bowl. Turn the the bottom of the tape edge up to keep the adhesive from running into the bowl. After the adhesive is cured, pull the tape off. This will allow the bearing on the bowl bit to ride much smoother. Also set you router so it just skims the the bottom of the sink deck. Good luck.
Wes
Geez… I hope I never have to take one out. I’ll know who to call though!!
ANDY”S SINK REMOVAL SERVICE 
A word of advice, dont have someone under the sink holding it. Use a bar clamp (round) put a threaded flange base on one end and mount to a 15″ by 15″ pc of plywood, this sets on the cabinet floor. then use the end with out the threaded handle to place under the drain with a 8″ by 8″ pc of plywood with 1″ hole for bar, snug this up under the sink. No extra man needed. If you make a plate that covers the sink but allows for the router, like Kevin’s, there is hardly any mess. Seal up that one cabinet box and it all stays right in that area. Some times it takes more time to clean than to do the repair. Tha staron book shows the whole thing, clamp and all.
John
I have replaced dozens and dozens of sinks. I found that the easiest way to hold a sink up so that it doesn’t fall into the cabinet when cutting it free, is to cut both the left and the right side first, then place a 6″ piece of allum. tape over the curf and up onto the deck. do this on both sides and then finish cuttiing the front and the back of the sink. Hold the sink up by the drain and remove the tape. I have never had one come loose prematurely.
John C
J C Fab wrote
I have replaced dozens and dozens of sinks. I found that the easiest way to hold a sink up so that it doesn’t fall into the cabinet when cutting it free, is to cut both the left and the right side first, then place a 6″ piece of allum. tape over the curf and up onto the deck. do this on both sides and then finish cuttiing the front and the back of the sink. Hold the sink up by the drain and remove the tape. I have never had one come loose prematurely.
John C
I think I will try that the next time.
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