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All:
Let’s say you’ve got to cut out a Corian 874 that has been set as far back as possible to allow for tip-out drawers. There might be an inch and a half between the inside of the bowl and the front of the splash. You’ve got your 3″ diameter $165.00 bowl-cutting bit in the router, but the base of the router hits the splash before the bit engages the bowl.
How do you cut this sink out without buying Penske’s extend-o-matic?
Joe
Joe,
I have seen a sink cut out with a grinder mounted to a board wide enough not to drop into the sink when slid across the back of the sink with a 7” saw blade mounted to it. It’s something like your Rail Saw story, but it worked.
Dani
KarlC@BTP wrote
I’m thinking that Joe already knows a fews ways to get this done, he’s testing the rest of us.Karl:
You are correct in that I do have an idea or two. Norm and Dani have passed the test, you however, shall remain on double secret probation until I see an appropriate solution offered.
Stop sandbagging,
Joe
One of the EZest ways to solve this problem, and get a clean cut by useing the tools you have, is to remove the backsplash, you can even cut away some of the sheet rock if needed. There are several other ways to skin this cat if need be ……..
Karl:
I appreciate your sharing, however, I know you are capable of so much more. While removing drywall would help, one is bound to bump into a stud or two traversing the length of an 874. And what if, God forbid, this is a cove job? Please address these issues. Since this is Christmas eve, I’m feeling particulary generous and am willing to give you a do-over but you remain on double secret probation.
Joe
P.S.
I’ve had teeth extracted with less effort than getting information out of you. It’s almost Christmas Karl, give us all a little gift. You’ll feel realy good about it, I promise.
LOL, Joe your cracking me up ! From day 1 of getting into the repair jig, I started with DeWalt’s 3HP router, as it has a cut base and you can get a vac attachment for it. This lets you get up close to a wall if needed, for sinks and seam splits. The worse case I personaly came across like this was a sick replacement with a full tile splash that came with in 1/2″ or so of the sink. I used the DeWalt, sink removal bit and had to rig up something for the router to ride on so it would not drop in the sink. Other ways that I have seen this done…..
– Heat up the glue line and wack it (works better with some brands than others)
– Remove back splash and score the sink with the sink removal bit, do a ruff cut just below your score line, the rest of the way thru with a roto zip, sand smoth, dry fit check before glue up.
– Use a thin kerf 4″ saw blade mounted side ways on a rounter bit shaft
– Use a biscuit jointer
– Remove the tip-out drawers, losen up the counter top and slide the top forward
…….. many ways to do this, we would love to hear yours Joe.
P.S. Tell me more about this double secret probation. Do I get to stay home from work?
Click on Banner above and have Back To Perfection deal with the hassel. Stick to what you do best…Fabricate Countertops.
Karl:
Thanks, that is more like it.
For more details on double secret probation, I suggest you rent the old John Belushi movie, “Animal House”.
If you look closely in thefabricatornetwork rules, Section 4.5, Subsection 7.9A, Article 1.634, Paragraph 6, you’ll find:
“The originator of a thread shall have the right to place anyone on secret probation or even double secret probation at his or her discrection.”
Joe
P.S.
Due to your exelemplary response on your do over, I’m revoking your double secret probation.
Karl:
Ever hear of loosening a bowl with lacquer thinner? I heard of a bowl misplaced in a shop setting, they soaked it a long time until the bond let go and reused the sink. Fortunately, I’ve not had that experience yet, but I may do some experimentation and get back to you. You’d get a nice break with this method but you’ll probably have a hell of a long lunch hour.
I like the heat method for its speed and lack of mess, but overheating could have catastrophic consequences for the color. I haven’t tried this, but I would imagine the temperature required to break the bond between a bowl and a deck has got to be near enough to deflect and/or discolor deck material. Maybe a heat tape mask to the bottom deck/bowl edge? Anytime you’re “whacking” solid surface, you’re gambling. This method is probably not for the inexperienced or faint-of-heart.
I think I’ll take the bowl removal bit as far around as possible, then rotozip the back of the sink off freehand to get most of the sink out of the way. Since I already own a nice Metabo, all I’d have to buy is the right blade and I should be able to remove the rear sink flange cleanly with the right jig. Maybe I’ll just freehand it.
I’ll keep you posted,
Joe
P.S.
Andy:
I’ve made a nice living on jobs that I had no idea how to do when I bid them. This is a walk in the park by comparison. Ready, fire, aim.
Joe,
I have also tried the lacquere thinner method. Although not on a sink replacement on the job. I did it in the shop and had access to the back side of the counter top where I could get a sharp chisel worked into the seam at the sink flange. the lacquere thinner actually doesn’t have to soften the glue very long, it just has to be able to get into the seam as you start to separate the sink. Keep adding lacquere thinner so that it can wick into the seam seperation as it creeps around the sink. This method is also an excellent way to remove stove reinforcement blocks that were too small or became too small when the stove cut out was enlarged to install a stainless steel trim ring.Back to the sink senario. Kevin Anreas has a bit that is 6′ in diameter with a large phenolic bearing above the bit that will ride nicely on the rim of the sink. Make a router base that is 7″ wide and 25″ long. On the router end of the base only let the base pertruded as far as the router motor housing. This will to cut as close as possible and give your router stability when you get to the back of the sink, the long end of the base will ride on the front of the countertop. This allows about 1″ of the bit to extend past the router base. I have removed sinks that only had about 1/8″ of flat deck between the sink radius and the cove of the backsplash. You can even remove a sink that has a faucet mounted on the counter without removing the faucet.
I should note that you will need to dedicate a router to this task as you will need to cut the factory base off even with the router motor so that you can get as close as possible.
Johnny C
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