[Wade Stein]

Does anybody have any suggestions for putting seams in the middle of a slide in stove.

Thanks

Wade[EMO]confuse.gif[/EMO]

[Andy Graves]

Which direction? Is there going to be one seam in the middle of the back or are you talking about side to side?

[Norm Walters]

I think we had this conversation before. Wasn’t the outcome that most soft seam, or charge alot to do a hard seam. It’s only about a 3″ piece.

[KCWOOD]

Yes, I think only few of us gave the customer a solid top. Most just laid a piece in there and siliconed it in, resulting in 2 soft seams in the corners. I myself make it solid. While I believe most Fab manuals say no seam, many have put seams there and never had a problem. I would still seam block it along with the corners.

[Tom M]

If the seam needs to be in a peninsula, you can’t really do a soft seam. There is no other place this seam can go? Double up the perimeter, through the build up.

Tom

[John Christensen]

Only Corian, as far as I know, even allows for seams to go through or into the cook top cut out using a hard seam. If the fab requirements don’t allow for a seam through a cut out and you put one there and there is a failure. You own it.

A situation that I have found to be problematic as far as layout, is the island or penninsula top that has a slide in stove and an extended overhang on the opposite side. If you can’t put a seam in the cut out, it might place the seam out in the overhang area which can be a support problem or it might place the seam at the folcram point at the back of the cabinet. If the overhang is subjected to too much weight it can add quite a bit of stress to the seam area and be a potential problem, even with the required seam strap.

In the above situation I prefer that the customer allow me to install a metal support frame that is cantelevered off the whole cabinet. The reason for this is that some cabinets are not structural enough on the back side to give the necessary support for knee braces. Sometimes there are doors on the oposite side that have spacing that prevents adequate spacing of braces.

I haven’t had any failures yet, however most of the fab requirements, that I am familiar, with say not to have a seam in a overhang situation also. Rock and a hard place, huh.

On standard width cabinets I always like to make the top in one piece with no soft seams. I either cut it out of one larger piece or in the case of Corian I might place the site seam there with the proper reinforcement blocks. By placing the seam there this allows for very little surface sanding on the job site. If the job is Corian, and it is not a good place for a site seam, it can be an advantage for material usage to piece the back piece in and use the roughly 5 or more sq. ft. somewhere else.

John C

[Shane Barker]

On all material, no matter what brand, we will choose a seam
through a cooktop or slide in range cutout before having it on the overhang
side. I have never seen a failure because of doing it this way. I always use 4”
seam straps which I am sure helps a little.

For the most part we do not seam on a typical slide in range
top, however not long ago I had a job that was close in material. You know the
type… two sheets should work or should I get 2 ½…. I got 2… and it was real
close so I seamed the piece behind the stove and I had enough material to finish the job. I even
saved the sink cutout for a couple of nice trivets. I have never done a soft
seam in that area and I don’t think I ever will. Any time I need the extra material I will seam it on both sides
and make the corner block large enough to support the seam . Done deal.

Shane

[Jon Olson]

Andy having different ways to lay out seams .Such as the one being discuss here would make a great addition to your booth. You could have drawings showing the problems with certain lat-outs and the solutions.

[Wade Stein]

Thanks for all the idea’s. I could not find this discussion from before. This top has a overhang behind the stove and a 12” cabinet and 12 ” overhang to the left. What I was thinking is two seams in the middle of the back of stove approx.16” apart. My only other way to do this is put a seam in themiddle of the sides. The material is a polyester by Avonite and needless to say it is Black Ice.

Thanks

Wade

[KCWOOD]

If you are using 36″ material, I just give them a 10.1/2 overhang and use the full width sheet. 2 seams in black ice on an island that you can see windows and relection from every direction.. Humm…. good luck.

[Andy Graves]

Jon wrote

Andy having different ways to lay out seams .Such as the one being discuss here would make a great addition to your booth. You could have drawings showing the problems with certain lat-outs and the solutions.

That is a good idea. When can you get started on it? Thanks for volunteering.

[Tom M]

Andy
having different ways to lay out seams .Such as the one being discuss
here would make a great addition to your booth. You could have drawings
showing the problems with certain lat-outs and the solutions.

Andy, Jon,
I’ll draw up some line drawings, with suggestions, and maybe you could tie this into the check list? Maybe we could list the grid for each relevant check item? I can work the drawings, but I’d like a list of different fab situations from different threads. I have a lousy memory.

This could be done with other things as well. That check list could be a valuable resource.

Tom

[Wade Stein]

I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT THERE IS A WALL BEHIND THE CABINETS AND UNDER THE TOP. JUST ONE MORE GLITCH IN THE IN THE SEAM LAYOUT.

WADE

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