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Ok I know this is not a laminate website but I know alot of you do laminate also. So I have a question. I saw a post formed countertop where the corner cabinet was a base angle and the top had a pie cut in the front for the transition. What this did was alow the backsplash to go all the way to the corner. The only other way to do it is by using a shelf system on top of the backsplash wich is fine accept when the top needs to convert to a peninsula. Anyone know how this is done??
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Travis,
Nice avatar, btw.
Aside from strongly advising the customer not to go with this type of top, there may be no alternative to the situation you described. You can have a coved splash with an angled inside corner with no miters – if there was no round over at the front. See here, for a more thorough description. We set up jigs to allow for these types of cuts in miters, much as you would for a solid surtface reair, but I have to say, there is no great alternative to this. By the way, when faced with a peninsula situation in a standard miter, we finish thge cut where it meets the start of the cove, then change to go perpendicular to the wall. Usually, the upper cabs are reasonably well lined up with the seam shift, and the customer does not get that angled finished end at the splash.
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Travis,
It is fairly common for some shops to do the pie miter as you have shown. I have not done many because I really don’t like the way they look. If you want to do one start with a jig to route the pie shape out of the inside corner with the seam assembled dry, then fit the small section into the opening. It amounts to a lot of fitting to get it to look good. I have done them when you have a corner sink so you only need to deal with the side seams. Once you get the jig dialed in and have done a couple it is not so bad. I worked for a place that did a lot of them, but I can usually change styles, like go to a bevel edge or a square edge style.
Shane
Shane,
I might consider refusing a job that has a corner sink in this situation. There is no worse thing you can do with a miter than have it embedded in a sink cut out. On the upside, however, the sink gets rid of most of the worst of the cut. How hard would it be to charge a little extra and glue this joint with an adhesive calk?
Tom
You are absolutely right Tom,
I have only done this a time or two and it has been several years ago. I am not sure I understand the part about the adhesive caulk. I have tested just about everything under the sun on seams and the adhesive caulk did not fair to well. Back when I did the pie cutouts I used two part marine resin glue. I have found that tightbond two works very well, but we all know that laminate seams are subject to water damage so having a seam at a sink is not a good idea, but sometimes not avoidable. What adhesive do you use on your seams?
Shane
We use titebond II on all seems. It works very well, is very strong and also water proof when dry. The key is to spread the glue for 100% coverage. Alot of people just put a bead on and stick the tops together leaving small areas with no glue causing delamination in the future. Also the paralign clamps work great for puting laminate seems together as long as the tops are flat. In the shop they work great but in the field we seem to always be fighting them.
Travis,
Titebond III is waterproof titebond II is only water resistant. We lightly dampen both edges with water and then spread 100% coverage of glue on both edges. We will use the Paraligns in the field when we have limited access to the drawbolts, they have really come in handy in those cases.
Shane
Travis, Shane,
Yeah, I have to agree here. When it comes to particle board substrate there is really no such thing as a “waterproof” glue. Understand though, that we do not make postform tops with the dog bone fasteners only. We will either spline the top (if we are gluing it, or if it is commercial), or we scab the join with as huge a cleat as we can, and place leveling screws every two inches along the seam on both sides.
On the rare occasion when we need to seam in a sink cut out, we will phenoseal it, but you want the spline in that case for the speed. I think you have about twelve minutes or so, before the glue is absorbed into the grain and sets. Trying to work leveling screws at that point is no good. I hadn’t thought about using Titebond II for the seams. It works well?
Tom
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