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Congratulations Reuben,
Sometimes things just work out.
I have researched the Karran installation methods and it looks like the bondo method would work the best. If I were to do them I would probably do most on post formed tops so I would not be able to bondo the top surface but I would think it would hold better if the bottom was filled with bondo rather than silicone. Do you do them with post formed tops? If so how do you finish the bottom?
Shane
Shane
I don’t do any post form tops just custom apllied front edges at this time. I order in my post form seems to be to tight a market in my area for no more request than I get maybe someday.
Shortly after we bought this business we got a call from our installer who said….the lady says we made this top out of the wrong color. Oh man….he already had it partially installed when she can home. It was Corian Evergreen and it was supposed to be Everest (or vice versa) Not even close colors….but about a half hour later (while we were trying to figure out what we were going to do about it) he called and said never mind she loves this color, it was a more expensive color group, blah blah blah. So somewhere a very nice lady has a green rather than a white top. At that point we could not afford that kind of a mistake and I am so glad it happened to the right person. 🙂 A couple of months after that we made a Hi-Macs Maui Quartz top out of Corian Maui and unfortunately in that case we had to re-do it. Those kinds of mistakes turn into very nice displays though.
Now the guys are required to check and double check the color. Call it a learning curve.
[QUOTE]Shane wrote
Congratulations Reuben,
Sometimes things just work out.
I have researched the Karran installation methods and it looks like the bondo method would work the best. If I were to do them I would probably do most on post formed tops so I would not be able to bondo the top surface but I would think it would hold better if the bottom was filled with bondo rather than silicone. Do you do them with post formed tops? If so how do you finish the bottom?
[/QUOTE
Shane, I got the installation DVD from Karran. Looks really simple once the jigs are made. Done on Post formed tops. I can send you mine or i’m sure you can call them and get one. I’m 99.9% convinced this will work. They actually adhere with Integra adhesive….
KC
KC,
I have that DVD as well and you’re right it does look easy to do. I like the idea about the bondo method but on post formed tops they show support blocks on the bottom and say you can fill the gap with silicone if you want. I would think that filling the gap on the bottom with bondo might be a more solid installation.
My biggest concern is how they hold up over time being adhered to laminate. Laminate is a wood product that expands and contracts due to humidity changes and Solid Surface with temperature changes. It just seams that at some point that may be a problem, but I don’t know.
I really like the idea and I am going to order in a sink and give it a try. I only hope that later down the road I won’t regret my decision. But as they say “Nothing ventured nothing gained”.
Shane
Shane,
I use the Bondo method on my tops simply because I can get a level top without it telegraphing the sink rim like silicone. I have not seen the DVD but in the book that I have it uses silicone in the preformed after you router out. I do not think you will regret trying it like I say everyone that I have sold these two really like them. Good luck
My concern is the weight of the sink pulling down on the laminate, I know they say to block it around the edges but it would seem that filling the gap with bondo would work a lot better than silicone. I have heard of people complaining about the rim of the sink showing through the laminate and I sure would not want that to happen.
Shane
Before I started using the Bondo method I made the sink similar to the way you would with the post form exept I layed the laminate up after I had the sink hoke cut out . In doing that way I realized that you need to make sure that the bottom side flanges are sanded, routed or however you choose to level them the same thickness as your deck or you will definatley see the sink rim ( dark colors in formica etchings series for example).
As for the support for the sink if you use 3″ wide strips and do full length along the sides overlapping the edge almost to the bowl edge and then in the front apply a strip wide enough to go from front roll edge to cove the flange to bowl edge. Another trick to eliminate the plumber complaining about having to drill the hole is to drill out your faucet holes and place PVC caps in them and put a sticker on it to let plumbers no to pre- drill from bottom first and then drill there hole. Most complain about drilling hole and having to place silicone around particle board to prorect it from potential water leaks ( another good key to make sure gets done).
They seem like a head ache to do, but are really easy and once you get the technique down the do help boost sales at least the have for me. Good luck.
P.S. I can give the people I order my pre formed tops from and see how she does her under mount sinks and pass that along if you want.
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