[Norm Walters]

I just finished a top and it shows lineal adhesive lines. This is on a two inch stacked edge with the tempest series. I used clear adhesive because the adhesive that goes with that particular color was back ordered, I thought it would be fine, it wasn’t. I know Tom, Kelsey and a few others do stacked edges, and it just seems like you get a thicker adhesive line when you do a stacked edge versus a drop edge. Yes there is more adhesive and because of that I don’t think the pieces fit as tightly together. This is not the first time it’s happened even when the correct color adhesive was used. I am tempted to put the clamps right next to each other to squeeze the heck out of the material next time, but then I know I’ll here from Joe about squeezing all the adhesive out. I don’t think it’s possible to squeeze all of the adhesive out of a two inch stacked edge no matter how hard you squeeze it together.

[Travis Harper]

Norm, a few months ago we decided to do all of the tops for HD. Since then I have been sent out to multiple jobs for warranty issues from what the last guy did. The biggest thing I see is this same issue. Well on some of them (most of them) you can see every joint. Almost like they werent tight.

Norm, you have been around allot longer than me so I am not about to tell you about fabrication but we do put our clamps really close together. Around 3″ apart or so. I am not going to tell you I have never had the same problem you are having but it is rare. Honestly I am just not sure why it happens. The logical thing would be to say the material wasnt tight together.(duh) Do you sand the material before you glue up?

So my question is…. in this situation what do I tell HD? Technically the tops are sound, they just dont look all that great. The tops are all Corian, so what is Duponts stand point on this issue? Obviously it is fabricator error but that company refuses to fix it and says it is common to see the joints and that is just the way it is.

[Norm Walters]

Travis, I only sand poly’s or poly blends, I was taught at ITEC and they didn’t teach you to sand 100% acrylics. I still stack large particulate material face to face and back to back, even though most of the manu’s have the particulate migration problem under control. On this particular top I thought clear adhesive would be fine because of the clear particulate throughout the sheet, had I used the colored adhesive it most likely would have been fine. The line is not huge, and the lighting in my shop is really bright. The edge is a large roman ogee and I only see one line not two.

[Paul Bingham]

Hi norm,

Sorry we didn’t get to meet at the party. You sat at the end of our table for a while, but with all the free drinks and conversations going on the moment didn’t happen.

I found when working with Formica Pure Ice I have visible seams no matter what. The first job I did with the material was a double vanity with coved splash. When I routed out the cove I was shocked to see both joints. I figured I messed up and cut the splash off and started over making sure I did a good job. Same results. The material is clear enough that you actually see the glue thru the material.

Paul

[Chris Yaughn]

Norm,

I struggled with this a few months ago. Being new to the material I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. I finally settled on two variable that may or may not be in keeping with what everyone else sees, but they seam to fit my situation.

First, I was using a Manufacturer Brand Labeled Adhesive, it skimmed over faster than I could clamp up and I never got a seam I was happy with. Tried Integra, no seam. Anecdote, I know. Just telling you what I saw. I doubt Integra does there private label as the color from the Manf. was not a good match while Integra’s was.

Second, I think I was using too large a stacked edge. The way I explained it too myself was, if the clamp was slightly past the center of the stack, the back of the stack was being pinched tight while all the glue was running to the front. Keep the clamps on the front half. No seams.

I don’t know if this helps at all, your vastly more experience with this stuff than I am. I would be interested in ideas on what to do to fix an otherwise good top that has a seam line in a stacked edge, though.

Chris

[Sharon Lane]

If it is a very small area, use crayons to fill in. Some of the guys complain if you use up their favorite colors and thus have nothing to do at break time. Oh well….

[Shane Barker]

This is what we do;

When we get material in that we feel may be an issue we will take the time to glue up a sample doing a stacked edge face to face and face to back. The last tempest job we did we were surprised to find that the face to back looked the best, in fact the face to face showed a line. I think it was mostly from the particulate and not a glue line but it was very noticeable.

We have had the same problem as Norm and I would bet there is not a fabricator out there that hasn’t. We have gone so far as to take a ½” cut off the edge and glue a piece flat on the face of the edge to cover the lines. It works and is worth the effort but it is a lot of work. I have also cut a slot on the edge to take out the lines and glued another piece in the slot, risky but if you have a good adhesive match it works. One time I had a real bad one and had asked the customer if they would like an inlay edge at no cost, they jumped at the chance and it saved the day. Again I cut a slot and glued in another color which is less likely to show the glue lines.

I hate it when stuff like this happens but when you can get creative and fix the problem it makes you feel pretty good, and that is what makes a good fabricator a great one.

Shane

[Norm Walters]

Shane, what bit are you using to cut the slot?

[Shane Barker]

It is called a solid surface face inlay bit.

Shane

[Norm Walters]

Thanks Shane.

[John Cristina]

Norm,

It could be a couple things going on here, but chances are that Chris is right about the clamps having to be closer to the front. Under normal circumstances. Did this color call for clear adhesive? If integra does not have it listed with that color, never assume it will work, clear will always leave that shadow line. Another possibility is bruising on the edges from cutting the build up pieces. Did you try routing off a little of the edge? You are close enough to me that if you find a glue that maybe Rugby does not have in stock, call me. I might be able to help, we keep a fairly good suply of integra adhesives on hand.

John

[Joe Corlett]

Norm:

The use of a dropped edge in this situation would have eliminated two exposed horizontal bond lines, reducing your bond line exposure and chance for failure by 66 2/3%. Stacking for particulate match would be eliminated also.

For a 2″ dropped edge, cut one strip at 1 5/8″ and one at 1 3/4″ and bond the two together, flush on one edge. After curing, place the taller strip against your table saw fence and rip the squeeze-out and a poo of material off the flush edge. Place the flush edge against the table saw fence and rip to 1/1/2″. Now you have a 1″ wide by 1 1/2″ tall build up strip with no squeeze-out anywhere ready to bond to your deck with no chance of mismatched particulate and two bond lines eliminated.

Combine this with a color matched adhesive from Integra and your troubles are over.

Joe

[Gordon Shell]

You know what my answer to visible edge stack lines……………………………………I won’t state the obvious.:)

[Shane Barker]

What’s your answer to a customer that wants a 2″ edge?

Shane

[Gordon Shell]

Shane wrote

What’s your answer to a customer that wants a 2″ edge?

Shane

Laminate a pc of 2cm to a pc of 3cm and save your self 2 of the three lines and alot of adhesive. 2cm=3/4″, 3cm=1 1/4″ together they give you a 2″ edge.

[Author]

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