[canuck]

I’m wondering if there is a way to fix laminate that has bubbled in a few isolated spots?  I’ve thought about drilling and injecting an epoxy or other adhesive that does not require flashing/drying, but not sure what adhesive to use.  I’ve tried searching this forum but didn’t find anything, if this was already discussed my apologies.

[canuck]

For clarification, we are not fixing our mistake but a countertop that is a number of years old. I’ve read online where people have drilled from the top or the bottom, but not sure what adhesive they have used. Has anyone tried this?

[David Gerard]

On newer tops we have had success with using an iron with a t-shirt under it and warming up the bubbled area and moving to the closest edge with the iron. Then quickly and carefully roll the bubble outward. It also helps to put some weight on it for a spell afterward too. The heat softens the glue a bit allowing for a bond.
It doesnt always work but worth a try.
On older top by others I have seen bubbles because the substrate was plywood and had moved. No fixing that im afraid.

[Tom M]

If the bubble was there from the beginning, then it is air trapped and will be very tough to roll out. If the top is old as you say, reheating probably won’t work. If it is due to glue failure and not substrate failure, then drilling from the bottom is practical, but very difficult to do right.

I would drill in at least two ares for each bubble if you can. That will allow a better adhesive spread. Keep in mind you won’t need 100% spread to solve the problem, but you will only adhere where the glue spreads to. The idea is not to re-glue the entire area, but enough to make the top feel and work right. Carpenter’s glue should work fine.

Get a good flat board to put your weight on top of, and it might be smart to place wax paper between the surface and the flat board. Remember, you must really flatten out the surface before the new glue starts to set or you will be in trouble. Build a dam underneath to catch the glue that will inevitably drip out after the weight has been applied.

Take a quarter and tap it on end in the area and listen for the sound change. It’s easy to tell where the solid sound becomes a hollow sound. That’s where the failure starts. Make sure you tell the customer that if you accidentally drill through, you won’t be held responsible for replacement, because it is a very risky procedure. Routing might be safer than drilling, unless the top can’t be removed.

Post again and let us know how it works out. This is never an easy repair.

[canuck]

Thanks guys, appreciate your replies. I’m going to try some low viscosity epoxy (testing first) to see if I can get a thin enough product that can be ‘injected’. Thanks..

[Venio]

When a job is too complex , consideration should be given to alternatives.

[Author]

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