[Paul Bingham]

I have a job where the customer wants an inset butcher block (13×18) 1.5″ thick with about 1/2″ extending above the surface of the top.

Has anyone here done this before?

We were thinking we would add 1/2 of SS on the underside and then a full piece under the whole thing to make a completely moisture proof installation. The customer wants to be able to remove the block for cleaning, etc. This would give a 1″ depression for the block to sit in with 1/2 protruding above the SS top. We would leave sufficient clearances for the wood to expand without creating stress on the SS top and would radius the corners and top edges of the depressed area. This would leave square corners on the bottom and 1/2″ vert. sides under the cutout.

Does this sound like a reasonable way to do this?

Paul

[Wags]

You can rabbit the cutting board so it “hangs” in the opening, then no way can it cause problems. Rabbit all 4 sides, I would put a radius on the top edge also.

[Andy Graves]

This is how we do it:

• 1″ thick butcher block
• Cut hole in solid surface1″ smaller on all sides
• Glue piece under the cutout to make waterproof
• Rabbet the butcher block 1/2″ deep and 1 1/16 wide all sides
• Make sure butcher block is 1″ bigger in overall dimension then the hole
• Chesiel the corners of the butcher block so it is snug in the opening.
• Butcher block should slide in snug and only touchon the corners. That way you won’t have an expansion issue because on the corners are touching. Will prevent the butcher block from sliding around

There is really no need for an 1 1/2 thick piece because you will only see the top 1/2″ anyway and 1″ is plent strong for a cutting board.

Good Luck and hope this helps.

[Author]

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