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I have been asked to do a top for a local builders parade of homes, house. The parade is coming up in a few months. Any sources or tips on cutting inset trivet rods ? ( not sure of the proper terminology). Steel rods inset in the surface to hold hot pots.
I will also be making a jig to cut integral drain boards by hand, but I think I have a pretty good idea for my prototype of that.
Thanks
Chris
We use 3/8″ stainless steel rods that come on a set of 6 and we get them from our Staron distributor. Very easy to cut in, we use a 3/8” ball nose cutter and cut about a 1/8” deep. We suggest leaving them loose in the counter so they can be easily cleaned but if they want them glued in we will. We also offer them in a trivet if they don’t’ want them in their top, and we will glue them in for the trivets.
I have a promo going right now with the Lowe’s stores where we will include a heat rod set or a routed drainboard for all Hi-Macs orders. This is a promo that we are offering direct to the stores to help promote Hi-Macs sales. It has done very well for us, the heat rods cost about twenty bucks and no labor, as with the routed drain board the machine does the work for us.
Shane
Chris,
I have the proper template for those, but only in the “long in the middle, short at the ends” layout. If you need it, I can either send it out, or draw up a quick dxf, if you wish.
Tom
Tom,
Are the templates tapered to allow for the runoff angle? I was thinking about running some 3/4 mdf through the planer on a jig, to taper it from 3/4 down to say 1/2. Then cutting notches for the handheld router to run in.
If you have something that will allow me to cut these by hand, without having to re-invent the wheel, I would absolutely like to see it.
Thanks
Chris
Chris,
The aluminum template was for the trivet rods, not the drainboard. I should have made that more clear, my bad.
As far as the depth change for the drainboard, don’t overthink it. We take the flat templates we made (before the days of the CNC) and shimmed it apropriate to the thickness and length the customer wanted.. This way you can alter the depth as you alter the desired length of the run, and still use the same template.
The space we allow for is just enough for the template guide on the router base. Let the shim be your taper, and there’s no planing involved.
Tom
Thanks Tom,
With that in mind (shimming one end) I can use the same template for both needs. Five minutes on the board here probably saved me 5 hours of OJT (planing, cutting, jigging, test cut etc…)
Thanks again.
Tom, never have done a sink drain board. Do you add a solid surface plate on the bottome for strength?
Al,
Always.
What I haven’t done, and would like to try, are the relief routes. Drainbords where the whole area is recessed, save for
pads” that support the items so draining can take place.
I really need to check out ArtCam, or that type of software. I’ve seen some cool stuff made with that.
Tom
Tom, I made one of those drainboards back in the late 80’s. What a job to sand the lower areas. The customer saw the old style Corian drainboard sinks (854 if I recall) and liked the look but not the bowls. For those of you with CNC’s it would be so much easier than the way I had to do it with routers. It did look nice. Was done in Corian’s Pink Coral. Ah, the good ol’ days
Wes,
I sold a lot of pink coral ini the his / hers days of separate baths..
I still have a few of those bevel mount sinks.
Tom
Tom, you didn’t happen to attend the Corian Training Center in Kennet Sq. PA in the late 80’s did you?
To this point I have tried my Wilsonart Dist and my Avonite Dist, neither carry the rods. So, I called a SS equip distributor in the area, they did not carry them but pointed me towards Surface Technology Corp.
I have not contacted them yet so , we’ll see.
Chris
Wes,
Yes, in 1985.
Here’s the pic.
With a Very Young Tony Basillio, I might add.
A much younger me. too.
We were fabricators once. And young.
Tom
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