-
Posts
-
when i was at Toms a wee while ago, we saw him glue a solid surface edge to a laminate top great idea but never thought we would use it so i put it at the back of my mind .What i did forget was that i had young Barry with me and he didnt put to the back of his this was new to him so when he sugested this to a customer when i wasnt there i thought well done son for remembering first then ah shit how do you glue it to the core so i put it to you HELP TOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For now ,use a flat back of the moulding, instead of trying to rabbet or spline. It let’s you concentrate on fitting and finishing, which is what you need to learn first. Gluing is not the hard part. The hard part is getting an acurate tongue and groove line-up. Gibraltar and WilsonArt used to sell edging. It was truly awesome. We have to make our own, now. Acuracy counts.I think we still get the edge glue from WilsonArt. I want to check with John in the shop, and will do so tomorrow, but I think we still use the 8215.
If I can teach John how to understand brogue, Barry can call him.
A couple of quick pointers:
Strong masking tape can make a huge difference in ease and speed.
You can alternate taping the edge from the top to the bottom, and vice-versa. This allows for an amazing amount of adjustment of the edge. John can do this to the extent that, at the end, all he needs to do is run a razor knife flat along the edge and it’s flush. Dead flush.
The coolest thing about solid surface edging is you worry more about “tight” than “fit”. With solid surface, and unlike laminate, ss allows you to fine tune afterwards. Very cool if it comes to it. But it won’t work if it’s not tight at each join.
Most important:
We use that press you saw for these tops. I don’t like contact cement for applied edge tops You can rig a floor press pretty easy – my Dad put some receivers in the shop floor for that. If you want to try pvac, You can rig one that uses crowned 2×4’s for the pressure.
I’ll ask John more tomorrow.
Tell Barry I’m flattered that he’d remember. Good kid, there Scott.
Tom
And by the way – “A wee while ago ” – I don’t think I’ve heard a more melodic phrase than that.Especially with more “whee” than “wee”
Thanks.
I use the seam adheasive we normally use for our solid surface. I leave back edge flat and tape on like Tom said easy to adjust and simple to clean up at end . Does anybody in your part of the world sell Kuehn edge products? If can find them they have some ready made edge profiles if do not have your own material to make it out of?
Good luck and they are cool when done.
Reuben
Reuben,
I just got them at home. I will look later, after I build the shed to hold my wood stove pellets that are coming in Monday or Tuesday.
Tom
Don’t have to much fun with that. To bad we can’t figure out a safe way to burn scrap particle board or MDF. Man that would help cut back on the ol heating bill.
Reuben
hi Tom we have a joos laminate press at the shop and press with pva d4 glue got the general idea and thanks again a job made easy i havent heard of the wilson art glue but i will investigate on monday all the best you!!!!!!!!!
Jon it looks like we are going to buy a biesse rover machine or a homag cnc but not until we have extended the shop for the beamsaw thanks for looking out for us but i think the big machine is a bit out our league money wise but we may have some long telephone calls with Eric soon.
tell him to pick up the tickets at the atlantic airlines desk we have a place for him to stay lots of lovely scotish lasses to keep him occupied and a massive raise keep in touch matey
Man, Scott, those Joos presses aren’t cheap. I asked for the numbers on a 5×12 and it was somewhere north of $65,000 or more.
Tom
Hey Tom we use the same glue as you. WA 8515.
Hey Scotty. You have Eric’s attention. Call us any time.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.