[Andy Graves]

We are mounting a Stainless Steel Sink and the DXF file says to make it flush with the bowl opening. Problem is that the sink has a nice big 3/8″ radius. If i make it flush with the sink opening, I will have a 3/*” dirt catcher.

Normally we put the sink on top of the sink flange and put a nice little bead of silicone around it.

Am I the crazy one here? What do you do?

[KCWOOD]

Andy, I set the top back about 1/4″ on the mounting flange, as in, one sees 1/4″ flat on top of the sink. I remove all the silicone that shows, nice flush joint on the 2 surfaces. It makes a real nice clean look. Not sure what you mean, you run a bead of silicone around it. Silicone looks yucky after a little time. I have no silicone showing, just the very small bond width between the 2 surfaces.

KC

[KCWOOD]

[Tom M]

Sorry, guys. I’m old school. The hole is always smaller than the sink bowl. I like the way the sink looks better your way, but form trumps function. Plus all that stuff is safely underneath.

Tom

[Gordon Doull]

Hey Guys –

Obviously, when we are cutting out a bowl opening, we are generally changing the sink out. In that, we usually ask the customer which look they prefer and have them SIGN to that effect prior to final cutting. I see Tom’s point about up and hidden away, and I personally prefer the look of the cut being just to the back of the bowl radius much like Kelsey described. We usually don’t go back any further than that for just the reason you stated, Andy. It just catches crud. The upshot is that we let the customer make an informed decision themselves and cut it accordingly.

Let’s face it. If they don’t like it at the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter what is best.

[Tom M]

Gordon,

We offer them a choice, but when it comes down to looks versus function, we rarely ever make the reveal and radius. Being able to scrape that wet, crummy gunk into the bowl is soooooo much more appreciated.

I don’t think I’ve made one that way retail for about three years.

Tom

[Author]

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