[Reuben Hoff III]

I think this has been asked before, but I am being a little lazy trying to find it we got a ton of info and I asm not smart enough to figure out how to search through it with out reading every thread.

So here it goes. If you do a drop edge and let it hang down the cabinet face an 1/8″ to 1/4″ , how are you guys handeling the finished edges that go back along the stove or the area that can only have a 1/2″ overhang past the cabinet ( ie 24″ wide top needs be 24 1/2″ wide) ?

Reuben

[Sue Turner]

Reuben as far as drop edges at Stoves (Free Standing Ranges) we do what we call a Finish Flat. Sence the Tops are built up a 1/2 inch for your ship laps (Joint Reinforcement) we just leave any and all build up off the stove area about 2 inches so we can take our drop edge and turn it flat so on the ends at the stove it is a full 1 inch thick by 2 inches wide. What this does is allow us to extend the top to get a close fit at both sides of the stove and not leave a gap the lets all the dirt into. We do not put a detail at the stove end for the same reason as it is a dirt collector. We do this same procedure at Ref. if it is a tight fit. Our coust. seem to like the way we do it because they don’t have all the foood and dirt falling beside the stove or Ref.

I hope this helps.

Wiliam

[Tom M]

Reuben,

Return the build up back to the cab face (frame, whatever) and that’s all you can do, assuming you don’t have a 1/2″ or more overhang on the stove end. Watch out for new dishwashers that are starting to push the height limit. Many don’t allow for drops if the floor has been redone (and therefore raised). Mke sure you have enough room to close the door without getting the customer’s fingers pinched.

1/8″ or 1/4″ does not sound like it would be a problem, but why are you ending up with that kind of drop? Was the previous top stone?

Tom

[Reuben Hoff III]

Looking for solution for the guys who insist on setting full height cabinets on a 2×4 flat and making it a littl tight to try and slide under them. I normally like to do the 2″ stack edge, but a couple guys making it a little hard at times.

[Shane Barker]

Easy solution…cab guys set those cabs after the tops go in. I will always insist on that, however in the real world I don’t always get my way. But if the section that slides under the cab has an integral sink what other choice do you have. I have on more than one occasion had the cab guys come out and remove the upper so I can get my top in, but most of the time they leave them off till I am done.

Shane

[Matt Kraft]

Reuben wrote

Looking for solution for the guys who insist on setting full height cabinets on a 2×4 flat and making it a littl tight to try and slide under them. I normally like to do the 2″ stack edge, but a couple guys making it a little hard at times.

Explain to them that the best quality installation will result from them making a return trip to finalize the placement of that cab. If they want to place it before hand, ask for 1 5/8″ with final adjust after you finish shimming your top level and on plane. Make sure you explain to them how it makes the installation better for the customer and you will get the all important buy in from the cab installer instead of making it sound like more work for them.

Usually works, but no guarantee. Cooperation is a wonderful thing.

[Tom M]

All good points.

You might explain it to them as if it were their choice. Take Shane’s example of a seam mounted sink.

You can say, “I can do this this way, but you’ll only have to go out and fasten the sink cabinet, because I have to pull it to get the sink in place – your call.”

I think they would choose not to set the upper.

You can also give them set blocks that are about a 1/16″ more than what you need, then shim up with laminate. If not, the drop and build up method will work for you, but you have to give up that uniform end cap thickness, as you indicated, plus it is likely to cost a bit more for fabrication, so you’ll need to charge accordingly.

Tom

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