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That training time should absolutely not come off because of the repair. If the guy is going to be there, he needs to stay there and get the thing fixed and THEN continue your training.
You paid big bucks. They can afford to reschedule his flight.
Tom
Off Topic about your CNC.
Do Not pay in full until you are 100% satisfied. You will be sorry if you do. Next, If you paid for three days of training that equal 24 hours of training, not 12 or 16. If the machine broke then they need to fix it for FREE and it shouldn’t cost you a dime.
Remember you should get exactly (no more and no less) than you agreed to on the contract.
AXYZ has an impeccable record of customer service so far and I am sure they will continue. Let us know if you experience anything different.
Back on to coved splashes here. What is the easiest way to prep a coved splash for a feild seam? Mirror match all ends before gluing together or what ?
Reuben
I make the countertop first, cut the field seam so it matches perfect and then I glue in the Cove strip and the splash. Just make sure you line everything up with the seam cut.
By the way, we use the paralign to hold the counterop together while we attach the cove. Make sure the seam is perfectly flat or it will be difficult to fit the splash pieces.
Reuben wrote
Back on to coved splashes here. What is the easiest way to prep a coved splash for a Field seam? Mirror match all ends before gluing together or what ?
Reuben
Reuben:
Make sure your splash is cut and glued dead square in both directions on the top and perfectly flush with the field seam ends. If you’ve done that on both sides and the pieces don’t come together perfectly, your tops aren’t on the same plane. Shim ’em to plane and they’ve got to go together perfectly.
Tops won’t lay flat at the seam? Check for glue boogers on the seam plate or the bottom of the top where it contacts the plate. Had one of those yesterday on Dani’s job.
Still won’t lay flat? If you’ve preglued your seam plate, you’re out of plane. Shim.
Joe
Reuben, one trick that Joe taught me about field seams, irregardless of what kind of splash it has, is that usually the first thing you do is mirror edge route the sheets that will be field seamed. Then you attach the build up to the pieces and you will have adhesive squeeze out , or maybe the build up doesn’t end up exactly flush with the end of the sheet.
All you have to do is use a sharp bit and shave a 1/16″ or less off of the edge of the sheets that you already mirror edge routed. If you are only taking a small amount of material off, are using a sharp bit with a straight edge, and go slow, it will make a perfect seam.
Posted By Shane Barker on 04/26/2007 8:43 PMWe have another method we use with the spring clamps that does not require the kerf but this splash is 7″ tall so we did it with the kerf on this one.
Shane
Hey Shane, i was waiting patiently to see if you posted the other method
.How many inches apart do you put the spring clamps with the kerf method?
Andy? with the biscuit jointer method?
Best Regards
Fernando
Easiest system, I used to teach it when I ran fabrication classes http://www.quickcove.com very easy and inexpensive.
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