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In Florida you rarely see cove backsplashes, I am going to start pushing them rather than going with the status quo, might just be the edge I need. When cutting a cove by hand with a cove bit most of the manuals say to just mitre the corner when there is a side splash involved. When putting in square pieces then using a cove router, a piece is always added vertically in the corner where the back and side splash meet then routed. Does the inside vertical corner where the back and side splash meet have to be coved or not??
For that matter, looking at Formica’s Kitchen Fabrication Manual, they have a spec that calls for hard seaming a splash with no cove at all, I didn’t think that was allowed on any material.
We cove the corner for residential jobs. If you want to save money, do the mitered corners. Either way is ok, just depends on what you show the customer.
We do cove on 90% of our jobs. Miter or cove vert corner depends on how tight we are on the price and the customers preferences. We always cove 45 corners.
Paul
Norm, as it relates to our Florida customers, I see a lot of Betterly coving routers. Not saying they use them on every job but with the mark up you can get by offering a cove, why not offer it on every job? And why would a homeowner not want a cove? I for sure have every top in my home coved. So damn easy to clean and streamlined.
Norm,
We just did a 3 day Home Show where many people who were going to go granite switched to us with SS because of the coving, reparability, staining and germs. Once they saw the design possibilities, et al they were convinced.
Paul
Norm W. wrote
In Florida you rarely see cove backsplashes, I am going to start pushing them rather than going with the status quo, might just be the edge I need. When cutting a cove by hand with a cove bit most of the manuals say to just mitre the corner when there is a side splash involved. When putting in square pieces then using a cove router, a piece is always added vertically in the corner where the back and side splash meet then routed. Does the inside vertical corner where the back and side splash meet have to be coved or not??
For that matter, looking at Formica’s Kitchen Fabrication Manual, they have a spec that calls for hard seaming a splash with no cove at all, I didn’t think that was allowed on any material.
Norm:
To answer your question, it depends on what you show and sell your customer. It is almost just as easy to cove the corner, especially with the Betterly, as to mitre it. Fasten two 12″x12″ pieces of MDF into a ninty and bar clamp the jig on top of the cove, flush with the splash in the corner. Lift the Betterly off the top and the jig will hold you steady while you rout the corner cove. I’ve done this a million times, it works great.
Joe
I am getting ready to do my first cove backsplash jobs. I was wondering about putting sribe on the backplash. Do most of you use a full 1/2″ or smaller thichness?
Reuben
Reuben wrote
I am getting ready to do my first cove backsplash jobs. I was wondering about putting sribe on the backplash. Do most of you use a full 1/2″ or smaller thichness?
Reuben
I use 1/” minimum and then let the rest of the scribe go bigger than that. I do cut mine with a CNC, but that shouldn’t matter much, you can still scribe yours to fit the template.
I am also getting ready to do my first coved splashes. 2 questions. Do I need the router from betterly if I have a cnc?
2. How can I keep my reveal on the front perfect if I am putting a bs on it. Obviously the splash has to be built staight and we will add scribe to it but it is going to be just like laminate. As you scribe a lamtop your reveal on the front is affected. What is the solution here?
oops .. think i really screwed things up now…
Is that how you mount your scribe or do you mount it behind the spash??
I feel the best way to do a cove has little to do with a CNC, I use Steve’s Compact V and after doing the cove manually, V grooving with my Striebig, and trying it on the CNC, I feel it is by far the best way to go IMO. I think having a cove router is also very important. It will come in very handy no matter how you do your coving. As far as the scribe strip, we mostly glue a ¼ x ½ strip onto the back of the splash which will help to not show a glue line on the face if something goes wrong when gluing it on, but we have also glued it on the top of the splash at times with good results. We cut it down to ¼ to ease the scribing process.
Some shops will scribe the tops and cove the splash to conform to the wall, so in other words the whole splash will follow the wall rather than the scribe strip. I personally don’t like this method, I feel the splash should remain straight and as parallel to the front edge as possible, of course there are exceptions. I feel the best way to fit to the wall is by way of the scribe strip and then you only have the top of the splash conforming to the variations of the wall.
We will cut out the tops so the back of the splash will end up being a ¼ away from the wall. So we will take a ¼ off the ½ scribe and the top of the splash will end up averaging at about ¾ thick. Of course the way most walls are there will be areas of the splash that may have all the scribe taken off and some that have none taken. There are also times we may need to use a larger scribe strip.
The whole concept is not that much different than your laminate tops it is pretty much the same idea just different material. Allow whatever amount of overhang you want with the amount of scribe to be taken off factored in and your good to go.
Shane
Shane, Travis asked a question that you might be better at answering than I over at his ‘I just bought a CAM-Wood…’ thread. It concerns the best way to split the top in CAD when you are prepping it for CNC.
Travis, I’m, not quite sure what you’re on about with the front edges running, regarding laminate tops. When we figure scribe we use what my Dad called the 1/4 on, 1/4 off method. Similar to Shane, this leaves a 1/4″ of scribe free at the wall, in most cases. With a bad bow in the wall it will come in mighty handy, though. In laminate, with a wall-to wall splash, the scribe allows adequate space, if you pull one edge, to make up for both edges. You can drop the top in place to scratch the line.
Scribe is something that you figure in to the mix after you have established the proper depth required for your top. If you planned it right, your top will have as close to an even overhang as possible, given the run of the cabinets. You even the over hang before scribing (on site) before you scratch the line. Set your compass (we use the Crain tile scribes – let’s us get real close to the wall) to the widest part (taking nothing there) and run the scribes perpendicular to the wall. Scribe both walls at the same time and you’re good to go. If you have a drop-in sink, you can use the scribes to offset the exact amount you will be scribing.
Tom
Also like Shane – we glue the scribe to the back, rather than the top. Your going to take off a lot of the material, which puts any odd seam close to where fewrer people will notice it.
A good friend fabricates his coves to follow the wall, giving him a clean line thickness along the spalsh. I can see the reasoning, but I disagree that it is the better way to go.
Tom
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