[Tom M]

So by the time I get to the expo, I know Dave as a guy who I can mess with beyond what most people would think normal, or certainly polite. He is as shy with his opinions as a bull in a china shop, and he can take a jab as good or better as the next guy.

I meet him after hours first in Florida, and see he is also generous and loves helping folks have a good time. He feeds off it.

But did anyone notice that when the show was on, and he was in his booth, he was a consumate pro behind the counter, and almost all business? He’d return a joke pretty quick, but if I was there asking, he was there answering.

When it’s work time, the guy has some focus skills.

That’s a cool fact.

Tom

[Domenico P]

Let them eat cheesecake

[Tom M]

I got the shipment from my order just now.

Thanks for the fast service.

Which color glue stick is good for which situation? One is stronger, one has a quicker set?

Tom

[Countertop Queen]

735R10 Amber is the strongest 25 sec. set time

725R10 Clear 60 second set time.

[SandyLee]

To further answer your question Tom:

The amber is your best bet for buildup although folks use the clear as well. More if not all people use the clear for templating material as it’s strong enought to hold it during transport yet you can break apart the bond if you want to re-use the templating material. With the amber, you’d have to beat it apart and chances are, the material wont be able to be used again.

In any event, it’s a heck of a lot more economical that the ribbed stuff!

[Tom M]

Does the amber soften with DA like the clear “plugs” we have been using?

Do the clear stuff strips?

I’m thinking temp positioning blocks for sinks, etc.

Tom

[Harry Millard]

Not as easily Tom. I’m missing what you’re saying on “strips stuff”.

[Tom M]

I mean your glue sticks versus the 5/8 x 3″ doodads we have been using.

We soften them up with Denatured Alchohol to remove the set blocks.

Does that work with the amber?

Heck, does it work with the clear?

[John Cristina]

Tom

The DA to loosen up the glue should work on any color glue. The DA is really wicking between the glue and the solid surface.

John

[Tom M]

hanks, John.

That makes sense. Unlike me, apparently.

[Chris Yaughn]

Tom,

I am not sure if everybody already nows this or not. OR if anyone is using MDF for glue blocks. I cut up a bunch of scrap 3/4 for glue blocks (remember I am still pulling seams with clamps). I found that if you put the hot melt on the sides of the mdf and not what would normally be the face (if it was still in it’s sheet form) I can whack the top of it with a hammer and it pops off. The hot melt sticks to the mdf 8 or 9 times out of 10. Leaving very little glue on the deck. I guess the glues gets into the “open grain” of the sides instead of staying on the surface of the slicker part.

It has saved me some clean up time on the decks. Your mileage may vary.

Chris

[John Cristina]

I think we should all get free samples of the black glue sticks from Dave.

[Justin Hartsuiker]

Nice try Cristina. No need for black. Never sold it, had a request for samples…got it, don’t remember who it was for. Oh well, he’ll turn up eventually.

[Andy Graves]

I tried the Black glue sticks from Affinity Surfaces and found that is was much more flexible than the amber. The alcohol took all the glue right off the material. I talked with James and I am not sure there would be a benefit if you needed both types of glue since you would have to squeeze all the glue out to change the glue type.

[Gary Gray]

Yeah Andy, this was only our 2nd request for black hot melt. The 1st was for a company, if memory serves me, doing office furniture in a black backed melamine. With a little over 10 tons of clear & amber sold last year, suffice it to say that those 2 colors are 100% of sales. If it aint broke, don’t fix it. But, there are options…

[Author]

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