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More Fabricating/Installing 101
Do you guys use the same “type” of caulk for applying set on splashes as for filling an exposed gap between a top and the wall.
When I installed my most recent job, a pair of vanities (THANK YoU ANDY) I tried out a tube of Axiom. While there were not any set on splashes, I did try it on some scraps and it looked good.
On the install, however, I had a small gap between the front edge and the wall that needed to be caulked. The semi-kinda-translucent nature of the caulk didn’t give me the color match wall-to-vanity that I would have liked. Am I missing something?
Chris
Chris, you don’t want to use silicone caulk for splashes or any other application where you are connecting a top to a wall. You never want to use a “line” of silicone where a top meets a wall without a splash, this will restrict the movement, thats why you only put dime sized dabs to hold the top to the cabinets. The set on splash needs to move with the top, if it is siliconed to the wall it may separate from the top if there is movement (i.e. expansion and contraction) The set on splash should be hot glued to the wall, and siliconed to the deck. Use acrylic latex caulk at the gap between the wall and the splash. If don’t want to,or can’t touch up paint in that area ,use clear caulk, if the wall doesn’t vary too much.
Norm,
I was under the impression (based on the Gibraltar fab man) that I was supposed to use silicone caulk to adhere set on splashes to the top AND the wall. I thought the hot melt was just to “set” it until the caulk dried.
If silicone is not OK to use between wall and SS. Where would I look to find color matche latex caulk to fill expansion gaps on window sills (7 ft or so )?
Chris
We Silicone the splash to the wall and use the hot glue to hold the splash until the silicone dries.
We do the same Andy, silicone to the wall and let the hot glue hold it. Chris, try some POLYSIL. It is silicone with your exact material ground up and placed in it. It is a 100% match. The line between the splash and deck totally disappears when this is used. Any crack filled looks like the material. That’s all I use, but many doesn’t because it is about $15 per tube and the tube is about 1/2 size of standard.
I was taught at ITEC that you don’t silicone the splash to the wall or it will separate from the top eventually. If I am the only one doing this, I would be surprised.
Norm, Steve Bace teach you? He taught me/us, silicone dime size dabs, and then use hot glue. The hot glue will seperate from the wall, letting the silicone hold remain with a flexible bond. ??????
KC,
I’ve used the polysill on one of the Gibraltar Mirages and the match is very good. I was wondering if there was a more econimical way of doing the sill job (Avonite Bone)I have upcoming. I may look around at some standard khaki/tans and see if I can get lucky.
Chris
I am not understanding how Axiom Beige is not matching Avonite bone dead on being that it is translucent and a hell of a lot less than $15 caulk. My bros-n-law has Avonite bone in the kitchen and with Axiom Beige you see nothing.
?????? There has to be some sort of variable here.
Kelsey, Bill Wolle was the education director when I went. We had this discussion before on the ISSFA BB many moons ago, and trust me, I am not the only one doing it this way. Also between the splash being siliconed to the deck and the caulk you put on top of the splash to the wall, it’s not going anywhere.
Dave,
When I used the axiom on the sample set on splash, Dead On, like I expected. When I use it to caulk the small gap between the front edge and the wall I think , maybe, the translucent nature of the caulk pulls color from the wall and the top? If that makes any sense.
I am going back to the site today for pictures, the caulk may have simply dried to perfection.
Chris
Norm W. wrote
I was taught at ITEC that you don’t silicone the splash to the wall or it will separate from the top eventually. If I am the only one doing this, I would be surprised.
Norm:
I have a ton of respect for Bill Wolle, but I’ve never seen any evidence that hot melt glue lets go after two weeks. I would agree that splashes should be siliconed and/or hard seamed to the deck. By the time you fill the gap between the splash and wall, you’re pretty much stuck to the wall. Use non-compressive shims (plastic laminate not wood) to level your tops and movement/shrinkage will be minimized.
Joe
I have heard that hot glue breaks loose after a few weeks and I have never seen it myself. Does anyone have evidence of this happening. If you glue the splash to the wall with either Hot Glue or Silicone, the splash is there to stay. It isn’t going to move with the top side to side.
Not to beleaguer (thanks for the spell check Andy) this point but I still need a recommendation for caulking Sills in. Anyone have any dealings with shops that do alot of sills? (Dave?)
I will need to buy around a thousand lnl feet of caulk or so . But I think I need something opaque that can visually fill the expansion gap.
Chris
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