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the daft scotsman needs to ask another question
we bought a cove router this week from feddy dave and would like to know would you run a 10mm cove and trim the glue lines off or a 12mm cove and trim the glue lines off which woks out the better job by the way steve i am still interested in the v groover you promised to build us you know the new generation one !all singin and dancin with the new developed bit on it
Don’t use the standard core box bit. Use the one that has the straight part on it so that it removes the glue line top and bottom.
I don’t kow metric measurments so in America we use 3/8″ inside radius. This makes it so you can use 1/2″ material to make the Cove strip. If you go bigger you won’t get a complete radius.
Hope that helps. If I am totally confusing let me know and I will say it a different way.
Hey Scott that’s a good question. I could never master our cove router. I wish we had The fabricator network when we used one . How many fabricators use the hand held one? Can anybody share more of there tricks ?
Scott, I may be missing something here but the bit that comes woth the cove router is the new style that removes the glue line.
Never been called Feddy but I’ll tell you, everytime Scott calls, with that accent he sounds like he’s asking for “FATSODAVE”. At least the girls in the office get a kick out of that…
yes i am aware the bit in it will remove the glue line but i just want to know what size of cove i should run first i dont want to run the full cove with the bit as it will wear out the bit quickly so i thought if i run a cove then use the betterly just for the clean up before sanding if ye see fit im saying
Scott,
Are you gluing up like we do? If so, pre-route the edge with a next-size-smaller radius cove bit, then cut it off the sheet and mill the next. Or mill both sides of the sheet and cut. That usually gives you enough for the job.Tom
Scott,
Just route the whole thing off. It will be fine. Sure it is better to get rid of some of the material first, but it works just fine.
Thganks Scott,
I feel a bit better. The only difference is a full days work at home, rather than at the shop.Tom
Scott, My name is Wes and I work for Feddy in sales. Route the edge with a bevel first then use the 3/8″ cove. Also, you may find it easier to pull the router rather than push. When you push, it has a tendancy to want to climb the splash. And if you care to read further, a 7/16″ diameter glue stick is perfect for sanding the cove when you wrap it with a piece of sand paper. WARNING: inside corners are a “mother” no matter how you do it. Charge accorrdingly.
Ps. I’m part Scottish and English. Got a great story to tell ya about a Scott who worked for me.
[QUOTE]FEDSAWWES wrote
. Route the edge with a bevel first then use the 3/8″ cove. [QUOTE]
It’s a lot faster to bevel your cove piece on the table saw, bond it to your splash and then your deck. No resetting the cove bit is necessary, those are fussy.
[QUOTE]WARNING: inside corners are a “mother” no matter how you do it. Charge accorrdingly.
/QUOTE]
Grind a 3/4″ paddle bit to a perfect round with sharp square sides. Scrape the inside corners with the bit until they shine. Hit ’em with some light sandpaper and scotchbrite and your done. Fastest way I’ve ever found.
Joe
…inside corners are a “mother” no matter how you do it. Charge accorrdingly.Very true, Joe, but they look spectacular and are well worth it.
I have to say, Steve L.’s scraper does a fine job for scraping the cove. You can use an old-style Porter Cable wrench as well. Grind it to size and throw a bevel on the grind.
Tom
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